This addition is somewhat a mix of two, first up to the dreaded tailgate not opening caused by either a failed opening button switch or actuator.
The procedure is very simple and ideal to do before a problem occurs which I can assure you.....its inevitable.
If this has happened to you and you cant open the tailgate you will need to get into the back by folding down the seats and climb in, no need to lift out the spare wheel cover as per other Internet remarks regarding this issue.
I'm sure the below pics will be clear to all, do it now and test before it happens to you.
Above is simple enough, once you have measured make a mark with a marking pen (Black dot)
Measure from edge as per picture, make a mark on tape, measure from (opps I'll update this 2mrw, forgot if its top or bottom) edge of plastic and you have your punch hole you are going to make with the screw driver, time needed.....about 2 minutes, 10 if you put the kettle on
Basically you need a marker, some masking tape if you like and a thin flat bladed screw driver, the only part you need is a small plug of sorts...read on
Do not line up with lower securing board screwy thing, its not that simple and that would be too easy..
Once you have made the mark simply punch through gently, now test with the screw driver straight in by merely going sideways to the left, not up and down, the screw driver is acting like a lever, the first click opens the upper tail gate and the next the lower section, screw driver will go on quite a angle but you'll get the hang of it.
The plug part is to close up the hole and ready for when you really need it, also serves as reminder that you have a solution at hand when it does happen one day
All neat and to the point, you could possibly really have a boring debut one day with another Rangie lover and point them to this blog about how important that little hole really is, I rank this simple but important mod the 1st to do on your list.
Rear view mirror upgrade, this is for P38s from 1994 to 1998, pre Thor engine setup
A quick overview.
The introduction of the...wait for it... the "Electrochromic interior mirror" or shall I merely say electronic rear view mirror is a nice addition to the the P38, however the early models are now problematic and to replace them cost a arm and a few other body parts but it don't need to as a Disco II electronic mirror works.
The only minor snag you will notice is the mirror sits slightly lower, but that can be moved up on your next windscreen replacement, the other is the wiring as the colours are not the same and so a little logic is needed to perform this fantastic upgrade, I say fantastic as the later mirrors are so much better.
Your old crummy mirror, dull and yellow
Below the DII, has a intersting vague blue tint to it
The replacement Disco II mirror, if you are lucky you might be able to pick up one with a built in compass, mine has the compass and is not that common so hunt one down if its really that important.
Most D II electronic mirrors don't have the compass bit.
What you need to do is to try and get the plug end off the donor vehicle, I was not so lucky and had to struggle abit to solder the wires together
You will need to remove the securing metal tab from your old mirror and install it onto the replacement mirror
If you cant get the plug end from the donor vehicle you will need to cut off the mirror side part from your old mirror
This is the DII mirror plug, alot different......really try and get the other plug side
Don't mess here as this is the compass bit, mess this up ad it wont work
Installed and works well, not pictured is a tidy up tube added to exposed wires in top of pic
The three wires on the P38 1994 to 98 is as follows.
White = Power supply +
Brown = Negative (Earth)
Grey = signal from gearbox in reverse (supplies a negative)
I'll add the D II mirror wire colours and functions 2mrw
++++++VERY IMPORTANT++++++
The DII gearbox reverse signal is positive, do not connect yet as I'm scouting for a micro 12 volt relay to convert the signal to positive, the P38 1994 to 98 is negative and needs to be converted to negative for the mirror to come out of dim mode when reversing at night, update to follow very shortly showing how to do this (very simple)
FUEL HOSES (1994 on - GEMs) Critical
I advise anyone with a GEMs setup to replace as an emergency to do, you must replace your fuel hoses now.
I know now of 7 P38s that have gone up in flames, one was caught in the nick of time and minor damaged occurred..
The Rest....total burn outs
How to do it
But most importantly use High quality hosing and clamps, trust me your spare shop will try and sell you cheap fuel hosing and clamps, go to a hydraulics company and get the best
First remove the plastic bracket retainer to allow for easy access of fuel hose crimp cutting
Here we used a mini hand hacksaw to cut through the crimp section, do a Little at a time to ensure you don't cut into the steel hose section
The crimp section is now ready to be prided open using a large bladed screw driver will do it easily, you will need to tear the crimp section that you wernt able to cut, easily done with a pair of pliers.
really simple and its off, now you can remove the pipe and replace it
When doing the pipe that is connected to the fuel rail using a pipe fitting it is best to remove and place in a vice to cut the crimp section of the fitting.
Now a new quality fuel hose can be attached
New piping and clamps attached, give your self a good half hour to do the job
DO NOT SKIMP ON QUALITY OF PIPE, there's loads of rubbish out there
