Fuse box info and relays, new update with latest easy mod to prevent damage

Update on the below proposed update.... its been slow but its coming to this blog soon.

UPDATE to follow on how to remove and supply the 3 BeCM wires that attach to the bottom of the fuse box with its own dedicated power supply, these fuse box's are over loaded and is a design fault.

Mod will detail a separate 3 link fuse connection, its very possible that this mod will solve a few current supply issues like odd ABS, dash dials odd behavior etc 

The handbook lists all the fuses but nothing on the relays

RL means relay

Be advised that you can use basic relays that are available from auto electrical suppliers or spare shops BUT a quality brand like Siemens, Bosch is highly recommended, speak to a auto electrician if in doubt. 

1   RL18 AC control relay

2   RL13 AC condenser fan 1

3   RL11 Head lamp wash wipe

4   RL8 Front wiper interval relay

5   RL1 Front wiper control relay

6   RL19 Engine main control relay

7   RL14 AC condenser fan 2

8   RL2 ABS power relay

9   RL 20 EAS compressor relay

10 RL15 Ignition coils, MAF sensor  **Important relay**

11 RL4 Right heated front screen

12 RL16 Starter relay

13 RL5 Left heated front screen

14 RL17 ABS pump **Don't mess with this one, buy genuine if in doubt - Do not modify a  standard relay to fit as contacts will fuse and will burn out your ABS pump**

15 RL6 Right blower motor

16 RL12 Fuel pump relay

17 RL7 Left blower motor

18 RL9 Hooter relay

Apart from the ABS pump relay being black DO NOT install other black relays within the fuse box
The yellow and green relays are different by pin design compared to relays bought over the counter from spares shops

The ABS relay is a special double contact design due to the start up current of 70 amps going through it, you must replace this relay with the correct one from Land Rover as these too are not available elsewhere


Maxi Fuses supply the BeCM with power

3 cables secured onto the underside of fuse box go to the BeCM

The slot “Not used” is normally populated with a spare relay.


REPAIRING THE FUSE BOX:

It is possible to carry out repairs to the fuse box but a simple fault like a bad relay can lead you to believe it is the fuse box, a relay can still click and show ok when testing but is another situation when a load goes through its internal contacts

None the less a fuse box can go wrong and is repairable, I've done a few with good results even though they are a pain to do
Below are a few pictures just so you can see how complex they are, its a well built unit using lots of thick copper

The stripping process is easy as to is the splitting the two halves, its the reassembling that takes most of the time with re soldering in new connection joiners, takes around 5 hours non stop.

NEW update from here
A few more pics to be added very shortly on how to repair the above burnt main battery cable connection with the use of a starter motor solenoid copper bolt, this allows for good soldering and wide spread support of current flow.

In the above picture on the left is the original power post in the fuse box, to the left is the starter motor solenoid copper bolt that is used in the repairs of the fuse box.

The above fuse box would in most cases been deemed throw away, this one was so bad I decided to give it a try and the results were positive.

Above pic is to show how the lug needs to be bent to allow for the plastic cover to fit, minor enlargement of the hole is required.

To add the new mod two holes barely larger than the solid core copper cable being used needs to be drilled through the PC board and soldered (As illustrated above circled in red)

The cabling used is normal house electrical sections, preferably the thicker type used for geyser power supply as its rated a higher current resulting in it being thicker and ideal.

This add on can be done without splitting the board sections and a must do even on a brand new fuse box 

Its the way these fuse/relay boxes should of been manufactured in the first place......

Interesting that something so basic to make up can have a major impact on current spread, we now carry out this mod to all fuse boxes we repair, better than new and I'm surprised the manufacturers don't do the same...oh wait, if they did they would not be selling fuse boxes

Relays...

New update added in May 2015, engine power

Pics on ABS pump relay and other relays within the fuse box opened for all to see regarding why cleaning up the contacts can have a positive effect

P38 ABS relay, this one fused and caused the ABS pump to burn out

Standard relay, please do not modify one of these for use as a ABS relay, it will fuse together and burn out the ABS pump - Guaranteed and I've seen it happen, do not simply let anyone replace or service the braking system on the P38 if they don't specialize on these vehicles.

Apart from WILLIAMS 4X4 I know of nobody else here in South Africa 

Standard relays can be cleaned up nicely, use fine 1000 grit sand paper, good for another life time.

Brake Fluid reservoir. A must read for every owner

This info is applicable to Range Rover Classics with ABS system and ALL P38 models

Click on pictures for a larger, detailed view

Recently after noticing a sudden surge in ABS pump replacements I decided to investigate what was going on, age and mileage seems to play a role here but something wasn't right and here's my findings detailed below, bare in mind different operating conditions throughout the world vary.....

Fault 1: Dark brownish clear brake fluid means its old and fluid has not been changed in a long long time.
Replace fluid and bleed complete braking system, requires around 4 liters of DOT 4 brake fluid

Fault 2: Dark brown but not clear indicates dirt within fluid and urgent replacement of fluid is needed.

Fault 3: Black fluid, probably never changed since it was sold off the show room floor, lets hope the internals
of the brake modulator are tougher than they look, they are not repairable for liability reasons and parts are not available.

Brake fluid must be replaced every two years as a routine, more often at least once a year if used in severe conditions.

Brake fluid is designed to prevent boiling, prevent rust and it aids in lubrication of moving parts..... but not for long as the fluid breaks down.

The above was removed from a 1999 brake modulator.

Concerned, then the safest bet would be to replace.

Use a good quality DOT 4 brake fluid

More details with screen filter removed

The below picture is typical of bad brake fluid from these vehicles and its way to regular that I see this

This is the filler neck, a clear indication that the reservoir must be replaced

Recently I have been contacted with a clean out process I have tried, although it works well to some degree depending on age and state I still prefer to replace with new. So much so that I have replaced mine with new, no point in suggesting something if I don't do it myself for a reason.

ABS Total strip down to follow showing all the bits and bobs for all to see (In progress)

First up to this addition on new info is the dreaded ABS pump relay, as you will see from the pictures the contact pads are burnt, these relay caused a perfectly good ABS pump to burn out, so whats going on....

Well for starters the ABS pump demands rougly around 70amps at start up, when the pads make contact there is whats knowing are arcing on the contact pads, as you can see there are two but one pad will always make contact first, this is the start to a fusing relay, one that will jam and make the ABS pump run continously and burn out.

So whats the solution, at present on the work bench I run a few cycles with the same type of relay and load, the relay cover has been removed so I can see in real time whats going on and its like lightening on those pads.

I have from the begining believed that a capacitor or lets call it a condensor for the guys who are familiar with "Points and condensors" (on non electronic distrubutors) to be the solution and it seems to be working to a large degree but final tweaking to the correct cap in near, the final leg of this minor but important mod is a few days away with easy instructions on how to install the cap.

In the meantime......

Then some brake modulator pics (to be edited)

VCU failures (Viscous coupling unit)

In side all Range Rover Transfer Boxes (Including late Range Rover Classic) is a part called the VCU (Viscous coupling unit) failure of these is common as it has a limited life span, interesting to note it's not only Range Rovers that are fitted with VCU's but many other 4X4 brands.

How to tell if the VCU is seized up:
Tell tale signs are scratch marks on front tyres (P38 not L322)), heavy steering, high fuel consumption and lack of power.
Also steering shake can also sometimes be included in this failure but not always, worn wheel bearings can induce steering shake.

Jacking up one side of the front axle and ensuring the hand brake is on along with Park if a auto is the correct method, set a torque wrench to 60lbs and rotate wheel forward by placing socket on the wheel nut, you should be able to turn wheel 90 degrees in one minute.
If its failed you'll find it will move barely at first and then lock up say at 45 degrees as the slack is taken up, if so then it's failed the test and a new VCU is urgently.

If your VCU did past the test consider the following to make sure it lasts:
Avoid heavy acceleration
Make sure the oil in the transfer box is a good quality ATF Dexron III, there was a update from Land Rover with regards to this which indicates that the transfer box is lubricant and temperature sensitive.
Also read  "Bad oils and fluids" and "P38 Lube specs"

As the Transfer box has not been fitted with a external cooler it makes sense why ATF Dexron III is used.
At present we are investigating the possibility of adding a cooling system as these run to hot in high temperature climates like Africa and most parts of the Americas

The pictures below shows a failed VCU as removed from a P38, there is no visible failure to these as it is  internal, these units are sealed and repair is not possible.

Brand new VCUs can be bought direct from Ashcroft Transmissions Ltd. vs Local and save yourself lots of money

 **HERE**

The Range Rover P38 history (Mk2)

                 

By the mid-to-late-1980s, the Range Rover's transformation into luxury express was well underway; one only had to look at the success of the Vogue editions of it to see this. Cannily, Land Rover tapped into the healthy demand for increasingly plush versions of the Range Rover, and ensured that prices remained relatively high, but not hideously so. This pricing policy ensured that the Range Rover would always remain relatively exclusive, but accessible enough for aspirational customers to feel they could reach one. With this, the future for the Range Rover brand was set. With the lower-priced Discovery under development, the intention was to push the original (and best) increasingly up market, ensuring that the Range Rover would represent the absolute pinnacle of four-wheel-drive vehicles.

In the long term, planners knew that the 1970 original - as smart as it was - would need significant development in order to keep pace the development of rival cars. Work began on the project in 1988, with engineering and styling work being focused upon - but at this point in time, no deadline for launch was set. It was not until 1990, and with a budget of £300 million, that the project to replace the Range Rover was formally started under the codename of 38A. The launch date of late 1994 was set at this time. Technically, meeting the demands of the 1990s would be no mean task, but given the excellence of the original, a firm foundation was already in place. Also, because the relationship between old and new, it would be entirely possible to introduce features bound for the new car into the existing one. It was a ploy that had worked well in the past for Jaguar and Rolls-Royce, so in this respect, the Range Rover was in good company.

Of more of concern, however, was the new car's styling. Rather like the difficulties encountered by Porsche when it came to replacing the 911, Land Rover knew that a major part of the Range Rover's appeal was its styling - and it would absolutely need to be right. Therefore, a great deal of care and attention would need to be employed in the development of the 38A's look... it would need to look substantially more modern, yet be readily identifiable as a Range Rover. George Thomson, Land Rover's styling director was handed the project in 1988, and admitted later that he found the brief both challenging and intimidating. "Recreating a classic like the Range Rover is a great challenge - but not an easy one."

Design competition at Solihull saw a shoot-out between rival studies by Ital Design, Bertone, Hefferman/Greenley (they of the Ssangyong Musso) and Land Rover themselves. Only Land Rover's and Bertone's designs were considered worthy enough to be translated into full-size clay.


Thomson needed to weigh up the conflicting stylistic demands of the new project, stating, "We had to produce a familiar, yet contemporary design that would delight existing customers and attract new luxury car lovers." It seemed that there was no shortage of styling houses that were keen to undertake the task, and with the help of Pininfarina, ItalDesign, Bertone and British designers John Hefferman and Ken Greenley, Thomson's team produced five separate models, which all sat on the upcoming LSE chassis with longer 108-inch wheelbase. There was quite a range of designs, from the evolutionary in-house effort, to an advanced Renault Espace-apeing one-box.

Bertone's design was compared with a similarly coloured Range Rover in order to be evaluated for suitability.
Ultimately, only the Bertone and In-house efforts were developed into full-size models, and it was at this point, that market research and customer clinics were set-up in order to ascertain which would be the more suitable design. In one French clinic, which would eventually prove pivotal to the project, it became clear that the Bertone design just was not "Range Rover" enough. Programme Director John Hall recounted,

"...we showed one of the early design concepts where we put a lot of attention into making it compatible with luxury cars. This Frenchman said: "These carrr, eet 'as lost eets Wellington boots." At that time the rear quarter glass actually wrapped around the tailgate, which is a tremendous styling feature, but it wasn't Range Rover; it wasn't tough. The car also had body coloured bumpers which aren't practical, aren't appropriate on a real 4x4 vehicle."

Of all the prospective and existing buyers polled, the weight of support went for the more conservative in-house design, which came as no surprise to George Thomson: "The other designs provided a lot of inspiration, but our familiarity with the product and its customers gave us the advantage." The truth is that on this occasion, as on so many others, being led by customer clinic results led to a rather conservative car, and it has to be said that the final result was handsome, and it did grow on people - just as Land Rover promised it would - but it was not a leap forward in any respect.

It was this model, Pegasus, prepared by George Thomson's styling team that was picked as the winning design.
With the Pegasus styling scheme chosen, it was a simple task to transpose strong and traditional Range Rover styling cues onto it, in order to maintain that family resemblance so desired by the management. These cues were identified as a low waistline, straight flank feature-lines, dark window surrounds, floating roof and "castle" ridges on the front corners of the clamshell bonnet. This was a successful ploy - and anyone from 100 metres could tell it was a Range Rover... one disappointing aspect, however, was the deletion of round headlamps in favour of large, rectangular items that looked out of place on an expensive car, planned for the 1990s. In fact, they looked to be standard Euro-issue items from 1980 and give the front end of the car a look distinctly reminiscent of the Talbot Horizon.

Wind tunnel testing successfully improved the original’s brick-like aerodynamics from a cd of 0.45 to an acceptable 0.38; this was achieved by subtlety altering the rake of the grille, paying close attention to the glazing and adding small strakes on to the rear pillars.

In terms of body and chassis engineering, the P38A (an amalgamation of "Pegasus" and "38A") retained much of the originals underpinnings. The ingredients were familiar: a ladder-frame chassis (stiffened by 18 per cent) with the body compliantly mounted in the interests of NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) reduction. Crash worthiness was also improved, with front and offset impact resistance improved with further chassis reinforcement - the fuel tank was also re-located to beneath the rear seat, and side impact bars were added to all the doors... all in the interests of improved safety.

All of the engines were new: two versions of the Rover V8 were introduced, in 4.0 and 4.6-litre forms. Somewhat rather like the Irish hammer that had several new heads and handles, the venerable and constantly developed V8 continued - the 4-litre version developed 190bhp and 236lb ft torque, whilst the 4.6 developed 225bhp and 277lb ft torque. For the P38A, it was decided to look for a replacement diesel, as the old VM power unit would not cut the mustard in the larger car. Programme Director, John Hall's search for a replacement diesel engine took him to six manufacturers including BMW. "I don't think BMW realised what they had", Hall recalled, "It's probably because the majority of the organization was sporty petrol-engine orientated that the diesel engine is so bloody good." A deal was brokered, and Land Rover gained the right to use the straight-six turbo diesel - some tinkering to the ECU was made in order to give it a more favourable torque curve.

Info gathered from ARonline http://www.aronline.co.uk/index.htm?invoguef.htm

EAS (Electronic air suspension) problems and re-seal

Where do I begin.....with so many components just for the EAS its no surprise problems will arise like air bags leaking, pipe work been cut and re-joined (joins are a no no) air leaks on valve block, sensors out of range, solenoid driver pack failing  (Bad design due to transistor failing within) compressor wearing out etc.

To date here is a list of the most failed items popping up out of the wood work.

1) Worn compressor:  fair use, wearing out due to leaks or bad solenoid driver pack or both.
2) EAS valve block leaking: age and heat from engine bay are the main reasons for failures
3) Vehicle dropping: leaking air bags, valve block or a leak on connections and pipe work
4) Compressor working all the time: leaks in system or valve driver pack (attached to side of EAS block)
5) EAS computer failure, rare but they do go

The list could go on and on but over information can easily confuse.

The below pics of a bare valve block is provided for viewing pleasure only, many hours of research into the re-sealing has been done to be able to seal them correctly.

As this is a specialist repair there are few if any apart from myself that are fully capable of carrying out this repair, my past experience in the industry along with determination (Qualified) I can truly say I'm a air suspension specialist along with all Range Rover repairs.

W receive a lot of Range Rovers in for air suspension related problems and I'm often horrified to see the sub standard of repairs being carried out on the system from people doing it themselves or garages taking a chance, we've had 2002 models in with parts from a 1995 added in as they couldn’t solve the problem, the problem is not the item itself but the repair, there is no temporary fix with the system and the only way is the right way regardless of component age.

Upgrade compressor

Unlike the original compressor this unit has a internal overheat protection built in, we have managed to tap into this circuit so that it sends a signal back to the EAS ECU and allows the unit to operates as originally designed.

Note that piston and sleeve kits are no longer available for the original unit fitted to the P38

The new wire (Purple) being attached to the overheat unit within the motor section.

Attachment location not shown. 

The above is not always required, depends on Driver pack

Any joins is a sure way to look for trouble, these so called emergency add on kits is not needed until problems arise and only then is the inflate add on kit needed, it doesn't take long so don't install them while everything is fine

Below is a list of items we keep in stock as they are fast movers.

Land Rover dealers retail these for R3600 if you are lucky enough to get a small discount or be charged the full price nearing R3900

The little black round disc is a cause for concern with leaks, even if you remove and inspect this diaphragm and find no holes/cracks it can still leak, the rubber over time shrinks and no longer seals effectively.

R2900, we prefer to repair your EAS valve block and offer exchange on these 

All EAS valve blocks are completely stripped down, parts are then chemically cleaned and inspected in high

detail, (A magnifying glass is king with the inspection)

Any defective valves are simply thrown away.

All O rings along with the diaphragm (additional cost if required) is replaced

Don't forget a new upgrade compressor is available, these are brand new units and we require your old compressor for the brackets, an additional charge is levied if you want to keep your compressor.

Please note due to the sudden Rand Dollar exchange the price of the upgrade compressor has gone up.