tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-88269507312700086982024-02-19T15:44:25.979-08:00RANGE ROVER WORLD For Range Rover (P38) ownersUnknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger37125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826950731270008698.post-35501481741623575492019-12-12T13:04:00.001-08:002019-12-12T13:04:16.340-08:00Rover V8 block head bolt thread stippedSo you had a overheat or a head gasket was leaking in the front and your Range Rover P38 went in for it to be repaired, well we've done so many head repairs on these motors I have lost count and the thread damage on the block is common, so common I worked on a plan and it works really well, in effect its like installing studs but to do it when the thread is damaged requires the motor to be removed.<br />
Its always the middle thread to the bottom, I'll be back when I've gone through all the pictures to add on here, so don't lose hope as it can be repaired.Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826950731270008698.post-42492136980076850052015-05-02T02:12:00.001-07:002020-04-20T11:03:21.673-07:00No Pay blogPlease note that this a open blog and there is no fee of any kind involved to gain access.<br />
If you paid either for a link to my blog or to gain this info please let me know at<br />
williams4x4 @ gmail.com (remove spaces)<br />
<br />
All info, pictures etc are protected under the international copyright laws.<br />
If you are not aware of such laws and violate them I will contact the relevant authorities in your country and make a formal, registered complaint and register a copyright violation with the copyright department.<br />
<br />
If you are a publishing company I am not interested<br />
If you are a scammer, go (**insert swear words here**) yourself<br />
If you are a genuine person and has problems with his/her Range Rover P38, enjoy<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826950731270008698.post-78908343443155242632015-05-02T01:49:00.000-07:002015-05-02T01:49:24.069-07:00Interior lights - LEDI love the P38 but cricky did they install some rubbish lighting in them.<br />
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You know its all the rage right now to install and have LED lighting and I agree 100%<br />
either you love or loath them, for me I tinkered with electronics as a kid and LEDs back then played a big role.<br />
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You'll notice that instead of simply pushing in the replacement lighting connectors I choose to solder them in to prevent connection issues and has worked well for me.<br />
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Please note as a rule LED replacements can only be connected positive to positive, ie Red wire to +<br />
Some LED replacements will work regardless of how you connect them.<br />
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I did all my interior lighting, below is the passenger lights, to make sure the LED lights would not pop out I placed a blob of silicon to make sure they stay put, works well but only work them after the sealant has cured<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826950731270008698.post-2787335500906033082013-10-07T14:59:00.001-07:002015-05-14T06:42:09.780-07:00Lucas, prince of darknessThis is going to be a quick jumble of a update.<br />
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1: Relay loop wire to test which ever circuit you like<br />
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2: Unusual power surges and loss on GEMs 4,0 L and 4,6 L found.<br />
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I'm adding the below to show you all how to loop a relay, this used to test a component or circuit<br />
Please note that when using a loop wire it can cause a slight spark when connected on a heavy load circuit, make sure fuses for the circuit you are testing are correct and not defective.<br />
In the picture below is the location of where the EAS compressor relay sits<br />
Easiest way to make sure you are inserting the loop wire into the relay is to look for the broken T<br />
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Red square, no not Russia</div>
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Loop wire, you can add a switch if you like</div>
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The EAS compressor in this case is used for example<br />
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Engine power issues:</div>
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The Phantom menace strikes again, So what has Star Wars got to do with a Range Rover...</div>
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One needs to remember that George Lucas did Stars Wars movie, now I'm not sure if he knew he had a opposite evil twin simply called Lucas, Prince of darkness", yeah we're going on about the Lucas electrical's that plague so many Land Rovers and the P38 is no exception to this rule.</div>
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What I like about English Auto electrical's is you can become quite familiar with their circuits rather quickly...we'll I did, not sure if that's anything to do with having English blood flowing around in me.<br />
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Its important to become familiar with the workings of the RAVE manual, once you crack the coding jargon your on your way to becoming a Lucas genius. </div>
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Ok I'll get to the point so you can run out and change that relay that's been bothering your power problems.</div>
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In the Engine compartment fuse box is Relay 15, this supplies power to coils, airflow meter etc.</div>
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Its the green relay in the pic above below where you see the loop wire, on the fuse box it's shown a daft symbol with a key....what, yipe you got it, I havn't tried to see if it has anything to do with central locking.</div>
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I replaced mine from one of the wiper relays and now I have to replace that relay as its defective proving that I originally had a bad relay, I highly doubt my Range Rover is the only one that had erratic power.</div>
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I thought my Range Rover went pretty well until one day it wouldn't start as easily as it should, then one day it would not start at all, tapping on the opened fuse box she fired up and so the "Dark" investigation started, in no time at all was the culprit tracked down, bare in mind for a moment that I had spark, fuel etc but the relay was throttling power and prevented the vehicle from starting.</div>
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Like I said "Lucas, prince of darkness"</div>
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Let me know how it worked for you at williams4x4 @ gmail.com (take out the spaces, added to prevent spammers)</div>
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One of our earlier post's regarding the aftermarket Rockers has a update<br />
<a href="http://rangeroverworld.blogspot.com/2012/01/rover-v8-rockers-not-bmw-or-ford-power.html">Faulty aftermarket rocker manufacture issue now corrected </a><br />
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Sadly our suppliers still have old stock .... very annoying to say the least, why cant suppliers/manufacturers contact their distributors and get the parts returned for credit or supply correct parts Like Land Rover UK did when I picked up a defect with their chains, they immediately withdrew 5000 timing chains and destroyed them, saw the e-mail to parts staff the next day.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826950731270008698.post-26342697000580409732013-06-17T14:15:00.000-07:002013-06-17T14:15:45.385-07:00Hevac and rocker cover oil controlWere on role here today.<br />
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This section is one that can confuse a little so may not be ideal for non technically mind people.<br />
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First up is the HEVAC unit, you know the unit that controls your interior fans and temp settings.<br />
On later P38's, 1999 and up a different unit was used which did not power the AC unit directly to engage the clutch, later models did this via a relay but as the later units can be difficult to locate a early model (1995 to 1998) can be used but requires a daft simple mod.<br />
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The process requires you to remove the AC relay in the engine bay fuse box and add in a loop wire, yipe its that simple..<br />
Thanks goes to "Handy Andy" in Johannesburg or "Jozi" as some call it, also not to be confused with "Little Johannesburg" in the USA, this is Johannesburg, South Africa<br />
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The next topic can always bring up a hot debate on this mod.</div>
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I agree manufacturers spend lots of money and time on development but do they always get every bit right.........NO, if you say yes we can argue till the cows come back from Neptune..</div>
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On the Famous Rover V8s oil consumption can be a issue, on some motors not so and it be original not ever opened, a head job or rebuild.....some motors will burn oil......why why why nobody seems to know... and it got me thinking.</div>
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Dip into a Range Rover classic and on the right side rocker cover is a fat vent tube sticking up, if you remove this tube inside it filled with a type of mesh, its not there for no reason.</div>
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Its job is to prevent oil being sucked into the inlet manifold the vent tube pipe is attached too.</div>
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On Disco II and P38's as the pictures show below there is a baffle plate to prevent oil being sucked through the vent pipe, if so then why is there oil in the inlet manifold....its simple really and its to do with oil vapour, oil companies and motor manufacturers alike call this "Inlet wetting".</div>
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In the first picture you can clearly see the plenum gasket is wet where the large holes are, this gasket seals up the upper inlet cover to the lower inlet manifold and the inlet ducts are where the large holes are wet, this wetness can only be caused by the vent system on the engine and occur on cruise and de-acceleration which in turn creates high vacuum on this vent circuit.<br />
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To possibly remedy this issue I came up with the idea in the pics below, I hope it works as the results are not in yet and will only know in a weeks time, if anyone does this mod please let me know your findings as I'm convinced it will work.<br />
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Please e-mail feedback to <a href="mailto:williams4x4@gmail.com">williams4x4@gmail.com</a><br />
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Also note that this problem is notorious on VWs<br />
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On the Gems its a simple job but not so on the Thor engines (Disco II and later P38s)<br />
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A light coat of oil is clear, dark rings around the large holes</div>
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Inside the right side rocker cover, or some call it a "Tappet cover"</div>
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Seriously though its called a rocker cover.</div>
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Inside this cover is a baffle plate (Gold) and that's suppose to stop all the oil..</div>
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Remove baffle plate</div>
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Oh before you strip it down did you remember to buy brass pot scourer.</div>
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If you forgot I assume you have a bicycle.....</div>
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mmm do I need to say more, ok place the brass scourer around the vent tube section inside.</div>
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Before closing it all up remove the plastic bit inside the vent tube and make sure its clean, DO NOT FORCE IT OUT, IT WILL BREAK (Disco II and later P38s)</div>
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Do remember to install the baffle plate...</div>
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Here's hoping it does as it should and convinced it will.</div>
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(Update to follow)</div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826950731270008698.post-12750892012436290872013-06-17T13:23:00.000-07:002013-06-17T13:26:23.709-07:00P38 load space light add on (LED)As with many vehicles, even in today's expensive cars and including new SUV's I often wonder what they were thinking when it came to load space lighting.....nuff said and can be a long process of why nots.<br />
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I guess manufacturers think we rarely use our load space or for a better wording "The boot" I find it weird that they can add lighting to spaces like the door panel storage bit and interior door handles but not give a thought to the boot space, well on our P38s its a breeze to add on and the results are like "Wow, why didn't I do that ages ago"<br />
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First up is to give you a idea where the LED light's will be fitted, no pointers here as the pics to follow are clear enough.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5msF_TUzh80JGFQM6RMf8NKgpwu85D5O-PJ4kC_8_IOzusDg1Nu74y1IocrIaXvlE_Zs13UzRCyOnk36aWocTZvBoWHGTRhf_A7e_RrID_X6Eprs74prVoWM6Pm8OkmsJ6wIyHuoxq_E/s1600/Load+lights+P38+(2).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" cya="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5msF_TUzh80JGFQM6RMf8NKgpwu85D5O-PJ4kC_8_IOzusDg1Nu74y1IocrIaXvlE_Zs13UzRCyOnk36aWocTZvBoWHGTRhf_A7e_RrID_X6Eprs74prVoWM6Pm8OkmsJ6wIyHuoxq_E/s320/Load+lights+P38+(2).jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Right side panel</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDGK0SyOvPOVB-rVZJFbB-AtrwIk5pCV5FrHQG-9sPZVlhB1mqorqt83vyL25kz6X_TLXvZq2Rqa0NQ2WfEci2hSLcWKHkT7njOlMwyZW6BSwB3QsbQkFM29_Y_bKgnoujKGkhCYM3Yh8/s1600/Load+lights+P38+(3).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" cya="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDGK0SyOvPOVB-rVZJFbB-AtrwIk5pCV5FrHQG-9sPZVlhB1mqorqt83vyL25kz6X_TLXvZq2Rqa0NQ2WfEci2hSLcWKHkT7njOlMwyZW6BSwB3QsbQkFM29_Y_bKgnoujKGkhCYM3Yh8/s320/Load+lights+P38+(3).jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Left side panel</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FStu6TvQpP0/Ub9ih8mCB-I/AAAAAAAAAwo/BxBmWbLQmRg/s1600/Load+lights+P38+(4).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" cya="true" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FStu6TvQpP0/Ub9ih8mCB-I/AAAAAAAAAwo/BxBmWbLQmRg/s320/Load+lights+P38+(4).JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Left panel, LED mounted</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mLyvjoT2rf4/Ub9ikCLjrUI/AAAAAAAAAww/LAc8qGockTw/s1600/Load+lights+P38+(5).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" cya="true" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mLyvjoT2rf4/Ub9ikCLjrUI/AAAAAAAAAww/LAc8qGockTw/s320/Load+lights+P38+(5).JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Right side , LED mounted</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUmyAeVC4Jud9tLzWmlj3_89KtnrDJrWM2tCWVt_ekG9D-W2UR-RDedlzwqQus6jG5bbgs0gq2f-va5gKqw-oIIe3UZZ6-oz4MXXyOwV64XURsx3vgE12CCQ9G2Ib5Tddl6WT49Pnyre0/s1600/Load+lights+P38+(1).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" cya="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUmyAeVC4Jud9tLzWmlj3_89KtnrDJrWM2tCWVt_ekG9D-W2UR-RDedlzwqQus6jG5bbgs0gq2f-va5gKqw-oIIe3UZZ6-oz4MXXyOwV64XURsx3vgE12CCQ9G2Ib5Tddl6WT49Pnyre0/s320/Load+lights+P38+(1).jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The above is a LED mounted on the high level brake light cover.</div>
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You cant go lower as the upper tailgate fits flush with the lower tailgate.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJH24qxRpeYJss5YlzKn6gGJFQK0GOy_ugZC4VOEd7xJ655jvDRvNZePg62poPR5LZ3toGtFn5wOJ0vqcMttpheO6Mst5kzLupYlVKiw5lrY86gkcFBTvnUoxDq6_yRiYyYAZvvmS1BsA/s1600/Load+lights+P38+%25286%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" cya="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJH24qxRpeYJss5YlzKn6gGJFQK0GOy_ugZC4VOEd7xJ655jvDRvNZePg62poPR5LZ3toGtFn5wOJ0vqcMttpheO6Mst5kzLupYlVKiw5lrY86gkcFBTvnUoxDq6_yRiYyYAZvvmS1BsA/s320/Load+lights+P38+%25286%2529.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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There you have it, looks alot better than in the picture.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJi-y3fqlakFkBe1SiS_Pj86tZySU5rGailyIQz-I4uBBJXzSFcz3gVuArLYid0T7sE4G5mlfeo8Boc1KE3d6MGNBuplI5gzqraX5c7EC6PP0m8ESs05fonsLBSQEa7RAgqISfpjkxCQo/s1600/Load+lights+P38.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" cya="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJi-y3fqlakFkBe1SiS_Pj86tZySU5rGailyIQz-I4uBBJXzSFcz3gVuArLYid0T7sE4G5mlfeo8Boc1KE3d6MGNBuplI5gzqraX5c7EC6PP0m8ESs05fonsLBSQEa7RAgqISfpjkxCQo/s320/Load+lights+P38.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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With the LED mounted on the high level brake light cover it lights up the lower tailgate and the parcel shelf nicely.</div>
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Parts needed:</div>
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2 or 3 number plate LED lights or what ever you prefer</div>
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I went the number plate lights as they are bright and housed in a neat package.</div>
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2 screws per light, here I prefer machine screw. (screw with a nut)</div>
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Around 1,5 metres of double wire (Basic speaker wire is ok)</div>
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Electrical heat shrink wrapping or good insulation tape (I always use wrap)</div>
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Solder and soldering iron</div>
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And least but not last...brains.</div>
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How to go about it:</div>
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Flip both seats forward, now remove little covers from the seat belt securing bolt on the plastic covers nearest both rear doors, remove left and right seat belt bolts (17mm) remove 1 retaining round clip that joins the plastic to the rear load space panels, remove plastic trim covers.</div>
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Remove 1 screw each side that joins all three rear panels together.</div>
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When re-installing these screws its wise to use a large flat washer to help secure them all together and works well.</div>
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Go to rear and remove 3 round clips that secure the finishing top panels to the boot load space side panels.</div>
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Remove top panels on either side.</div>
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This is where the brains come in.</div>
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On either side you will see a wire harness that goes up beneath the panel where the shoulder part of the seat belt is attached, here you are looking for a plain purple wire and a purple with red stripe, these two wires supply a feed when you open the door to turn on the interior lights, simply splice into them and solder the wiring that's needed for the LED units .</div>
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Remember that LED lights will only work if they are correctly connected, ie: positive to positive, negative to negative and no you cannot add the negative of the LED unit to the body of the vehicle as the interior lights come on when the earth is applied, in other words there's always a power on state to the positive side of the interior light circuit.</div>
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The high level brake light can be easily done without completely removing all the trim, using a firm piece of wire to feed the extra length of cabling required is relatively easy and soldering the wires to the upper tailgate is simple enough as the light simply pops out.</div>
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I could easily have added pictures in detail but it can at times look complicated and put you off, all in all without beers on a nice sunny give yourself a hour from start to finish.</div>
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Oh if you want to do this addition and have a Vogue P38, the one fitted with the DSP amp in the back I highly recommend you move it at the same time so add on a extra 30mins play time and is shown below.</div>
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DSP Amp relocation:</div>
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Why:</div>
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Alot of these amps are failing due to moisture and not age as one would think.</div>
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Seeing as you want to do the LED lights then you would be crazy not to relocate the DSP amp.</div>
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I'm not going to go into detail here as alot of know how with tools etc is required</div>
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The relocation is where it should have been placed originally.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3UhcD2YZbAtL1wSIguLicT_oq3tPgk58_EauJ1elD9HTO8IRp3gBfad_YjbC7Is-zZR0j8eaHe1Kubt7BmDOxNoQlIRIMnj7FjeJv1NObZgrU3gtzhJuQjEtrXMouvBmMZIdRfHvWEmc/s1600/P38+Vogue+digi+amp+relocate+(1).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" cya="true" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3UhcD2YZbAtL1wSIguLicT_oq3tPgk58_EauJ1elD9HTO8IRp3gBfad_YjbC7Is-zZR0j8eaHe1Kubt7BmDOxNoQlIRIMnj7FjeJv1NObZgrU3gtzhJuQjEtrXMouvBmMZIdRfHvWEmc/s320/P38+Vogue+digi+amp+relocate+(1).jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Bending the one mounting point to allow flush fitting with the wheel arch is easy</div>
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with a pair of pliers, drill and apply thin foam tape of sorts to seal rivet </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4wWmUD7Hpek/Ub9t1V1LEXI/AAAAAAAAAxo/pUaoMRA__a4/s1600/P38+Vogue+digi+amp+relocate+(2).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" cya="true" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4wWmUD7Hpek/Ub9t1V1LEXI/AAAAAAAAAxo/pUaoMRA__a4/s320/P38+Vogue+digi+amp+relocate+(2).jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Use a nice large fat flat washer to secure amp, a trial run before you drill is ideal by placing panel back in place to make sure it all goes according to plan</div>
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Looking down with amp is situ</div>
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Bare in mind that this relocation requires the harness tape up to be cut to allow the amp cable to move to its new position, remember to tape up the harness again to prevent any chaffing </div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826950731270008698.post-23825936775068140922013-03-05T17:26:00.000-08:002013-03-05T17:26:17.623-08:00Cooling systems...again, for the sake of your motorYipe we're back on the subject off cooling.<br />
I see this to often so....<br />
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Without question the number one cause of a majority of engine failures and break downs, the pictures below says it all.<br />
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I cannot stress enough how important it is to maintain a clean, healthy cooling system.<br />
It's really simple:<br />
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Drain and flush cooling system every three years, more so in extreme dusty conditions (once a year).<br />
Refill with quality Ani freeze, use a pre mix if doing a DIY job.<br />
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Use a light pressured pressure clean to remove debris from fins, in the pics below we remove radiators for this as we are able to clean the AC system too.<br />
If you are capable then remove the radiator, it will be well worth it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLD6OAimnoEXJY8-6iRqXA4UI8MLroXfxlgyv3PGaoJkjWlUNJ0Y0aX_xDC79aFViCmHabqT6ceCQwYdsAFd409upxj_KDMo8aPIYO726dvNdvr1GZiuTSSkScw0oqWknIMkqiJ6kZv4E/s1600/020120131831.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" jsa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLD6OAimnoEXJY8-6iRqXA4UI8MLroXfxlgyv3PGaoJkjWlUNJ0Y0aX_xDC79aFViCmHabqT6ceCQwYdsAFd409upxj_KDMo8aPIYO726dvNdvr1GZiuTSSkScw0oqWknIMkqiJ6kZv4E/s320/020120131831.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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And I wonder if this was a partial blame for the below</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZRQ0cnIqqeEvsoPu9PyW5mjTiiaEnxOi9qqw59PeqrEwWTSgs0dCkqJByM_P0_zzoYd5oIa-cFqnUPrp_QrJLqPdjvjtSzHA6ruluG9rjGV_6e-05Kad9CCTwcoEc-p02LCqEBV2KVGo/s1600/030120131835.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" jsa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZRQ0cnIqqeEvsoPu9PyW5mjTiiaEnxOi9qqw59PeqrEwWTSgs0dCkqJByM_P0_zzoYd5oIa-cFqnUPrp_QrJLqPdjvjtSzHA6ruluG9rjGV_6e-05Kad9CCTwcoEc-p02LCqEBV2KVGo/s320/030120131835.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Damaged flex plate</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpK5648ihzTb-dV3JkLI1a3SghyphenhyphenpaLPkiV79Mom7SgzFl-xQ-XjDMD03RkI8oBEIAES0aV_YKH5vXxy7eI83UdU785RjKdRU5C5_YrLOjz1pAuNmlU3-BjeCFOTwyAKxt7rFoAnhhVcOQ/s1600/030120131842.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" jsa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpK5648ihzTb-dV3JkLI1a3SghyphenhyphenpaLPkiV79Mom7SgzFl-xQ-XjDMD03RkI8oBEIAES0aV_YKH5vXxy7eI83UdU785RjKdRU5C5_YrLOjz1pAuNmlU3-BjeCFOTwyAKxt7rFoAnhhVcOQ/s320/030120131842.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Damaged exciter ring on flywheel</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3m7SJjCwaA2MT2g8kG4_He-K7YES2hGW-tloj96iEZQmPDM3U6lXiUq3_MMr8QBVnx1t2zAIRjdJhZOZ0wr8RoktEP4mJFh0Rb5UDR9p3BtYgX1C_lljcyJ4mEqq3y3ojdgBUm2befA0/s1600/030120131846.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" jsa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3m7SJjCwaA2MT2g8kG4_He-K7YES2hGW-tloj96iEZQmPDM3U6lXiUq3_MMr8QBVnx1t2zAIRjdJhZOZ0wr8RoktEP4mJFh0Rb5UDR9p3BtYgX1C_lljcyJ4mEqq3y3ojdgBUm2befA0/s320/030120131846.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Exciter ring damaged crank sensor </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJNwnXuhSscghMebATkOpvC_tdAY5D-L4_vHe1TEUm5TEnOYlX0ihRlzELMT5ooNDC0jjUEsMm2E6fQwQ3DA1xwz26edejvQgzetZoHCam3saIlucgFOO90dHM6vD7atRWP1s5cGDNjZQ/s1600/040120131853.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" jsa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJNwnXuhSscghMebATkOpvC_tdAY5D-L4_vHe1TEUm5TEnOYlX0ihRlzELMT5ooNDC0jjUEsMm2E6fQwQ3DA1xwz26edejvQgzetZoHCam3saIlucgFOO90dHM6vD7atRWP1s5cGDNjZQ/s320/040120131853.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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All back together after some major repair work, looks like new cos we use some really high quality chemicals.</div>
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The events:<br />
Vehicle broke down on his way to his annual holiday treat far from home, engine was removed and all seals replaced to stop oil leaks, valley gasket included.<br />
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When you have a poor cooling system the engine starts to be starved of external cooling air blowing over it, sure the gauge says all is ok but then not all sender units or gauges can be trusted, the result is accelerated wear and mild above temp operation and causes all sorts of unwanted problems.<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826950731270008698.post-37670280646619738232012-09-19T13:12:00.000-07:002019-12-04T02:16:23.715-08:00Tailgate opening problem, update your rear view mirror and fuel hose replacementJust to spike your intesrest, this new page will be updated very, very shortly (2 to 3 days)<br />
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This addition is somewhat a mix of two, first up to the dreaded tailgate not opening caused by either a failed opening button switch or actuator.<br />
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The procedure is very simple and ideal to do before a problem occurs which I can assure you.....its inevitable.<br />
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If this has happened to you and you cant open the tailgate you will need to get into the back by folding down the seats and climb in, no need to lift out the spare wheel cover as per other Internet remarks regarding this issue.<br />
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I'm sure the below pics will be clear to all, do it now and test before it happens to you.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8b6mgrny1ym5PK4nnzaDGMYW3uNuKYXNVDNzBb1BnaDPlwzllPJc-LT63S9A0LQoUr9Dq_QmUwITBdie0_4d_Y4bEgsOSInyHZ2z4YJEbo6Bq2WA836-veRwTN_Ih7tNPFMFCnwM0YzU/s1600/170920121716.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hea="true" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8b6mgrny1ym5PK4nnzaDGMYW3uNuKYXNVDNzBb1BnaDPlwzllPJc-LT63S9A0LQoUr9Dq_QmUwITBdie0_4d_Y4bEgsOSInyHZ2z4YJEbo6Bq2WA836-veRwTN_Ih7tNPFMFCnwM0YzU/s320/170920121716.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Above is simple enough, once you have measured make a mark with a marking pen (Black dot)</div>
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Measure from edge as per picture, make a mark on tape, measure from (opps I'll update this 2mrw, forgot if its top or bottom) edge of plastic and you have your punch hole you are going to make with the screw driver, time needed.....about 2 minutes, 10 if you put the kettle on</div>
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Basically you need a marker, some masking tape if you like and a thin flat bladed screw driver, the only part you need is a small plug of sorts...read on</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO83KDYkBNwInzE-1Wnk3JIHhMM6EkD6o9nB42jJc2jdlVhqIP5_gPuuNEsqDgVEbTxRcNAlQzqvT9lreo6aLGD9GZhtt86oEKFUw7LYaQtcg80cBiw0whvEPXg8mbxybQ5hzDxr2ZwD4/s1600/170920121718.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hea="true" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO83KDYkBNwInzE-1Wnk3JIHhMM6EkD6o9nB42jJc2jdlVhqIP5_gPuuNEsqDgVEbTxRcNAlQzqvT9lreo6aLGD9GZhtt86oEKFUw7LYaQtcg80cBiw0whvEPXg8mbxybQ5hzDxr2ZwD4/s320/170920121718.jpg" width="277" /></a></div>
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Do not line up with lower securing board screwy thing, its not that simple and that would be too easy..<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjzgHyUOKebuLaUcsB6eLYmSydzbpF5VU8ed1pSxS3XoG_ZslGkGgmN9hh9c3YvFep3Ao3U1DMkHAOzuGyn0q0YGPN2MOXAF5RaTY_2qRfN266WcsKq6zWYwuvSgAFhSE3IRYOYH_93xw/s1600/170920121719.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hea="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjzgHyUOKebuLaUcsB6eLYmSydzbpF5VU8ed1pSxS3XoG_ZslGkGgmN9hh9c3YvFep3Ao3U1DMkHAOzuGyn0q0YGPN2MOXAF5RaTY_2qRfN266WcsKq6zWYwuvSgAFhSE3IRYOYH_93xw/s320/170920121719.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Once you have made the mark simply punch through gently, now test with the screw driver straight in by merely going sideways to the left, not up and down, the screw driver is acting like a lever, the first click opens the upper tail gate and the next the lower section, screw driver will go on quite a angle but you'll get the hang of it.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz2oRR1WR9fpeWnk4j9X1kYcPMrKaLhxRRngBbKA-E1phh3nppYKfl_GQqL7eN-4tdrs2OHafsIdV4hnDak7cJcnFVMQvnYe6wuyN5VKZiga-8iuREfEOyNv220OWTaP1YJu_Di0n-wZM/s1600/170920121720.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hea="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz2oRR1WR9fpeWnk4j9X1kYcPMrKaLhxRRngBbKA-E1phh3nppYKfl_GQqL7eN-4tdrs2OHafsIdV4hnDak7cJcnFVMQvnYe6wuyN5VKZiga-8iuREfEOyNv220OWTaP1YJu_Di0n-wZM/s320/170920121720.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The plug part is to close up the hole and ready for when you really need it, also serves as reminder that you have a solution at hand when it does happen one day</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho_kXLRPBbJ50h1zjoSabRr_fRB9LFYnOhSM-WkHfBxQ55R2JjsyywurPpxnVjcm0BDT6kxZ8Ft_8DxggsnfX6eZE0tqZgTJqtR9x9XNxxWfg-O7Z4irgHIO_NAzIUZ53x9WsnVkPxCDI/s1600/170920121721.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hea="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho_kXLRPBbJ50h1zjoSabRr_fRB9LFYnOhSM-WkHfBxQ55R2JjsyywurPpxnVjcm0BDT6kxZ8Ft_8DxggsnfX6eZE0tqZgTJqtR9x9XNxxWfg-O7Z4irgHIO_NAzIUZ53x9WsnVkPxCDI/s320/170920121721.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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All neat and to the point, you could possibly really have a boring debut one day with another Rangie lover and point them to this blog about how important that little hole really is, I rank this simple but important mod the 1st to do on your list.</div>
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Rear view mirror upgrade, this is for P38s from 1994 to 1998, pre Thor engine setup</div>
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A quick overview.</div>
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The introduction of the...wait for it... the "Electrochromic interior mirror" or shall I merely say electronic rear view mirror is a nice addition to the the P38, however the early models are now problematic and to replace them cost a arm and a few other body parts but it don't need to as a Disco II electronic mirror works.</div>
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The only minor snag you will notice is the mirror sits slightly lower, but that can be moved up on your next windscreen replacement, the other is the wiring as the colours are not the same and so a little logic is needed to perform this fantastic upgrade, I say fantastic as the later mirrors are so much better.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2mvxJlMeVsM/UFoo-_szrCI/AAAAAAAAAnM/vj66CNJ7hWs/s1600/170920121724.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hea="true" height="155" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2mvxJlMeVsM/UFoo-_szrCI/AAAAAAAAAnM/vj66CNJ7hWs/s320/170920121724.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Your old crummy mirror, dull and yellow</div>
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Below the DII, has a intersting vague blue tint to it</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bhFbxpZcNzQ/UFopEKcexaI/AAAAAAAAAnU/URVcym-WKL0/s1600/170920121723.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hea="true" height="132" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bhFbxpZcNzQ/UFopEKcexaI/AAAAAAAAAnU/URVcym-WKL0/s320/170920121723.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The replacement Disco II mirror, if you are lucky you might be able to pick up one with a built in compass, mine has the compass and is not that common so hunt one down if its really that important.</div>
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Most D II electronic mirrors don't have the compass bit. </div>
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What you need to do is to try and get the plug end off the donor vehicle, I was not so lucky and had to struggle abit to solder the wires together<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFW3fQ0PJPduirXXcG-VvgCxeXOvXR-bI1n8OGOFKFRmBwu2FiyMlFljQLuYBwva1SfJ1cfnu7yM8fZzEbct5HdKyiV39ggrqLaggKNswZM8jL-FXDkXAYcBlqv58Zm7tlIwtG1SYvof4/s1600/170920121726.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hea="true" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFW3fQ0PJPduirXXcG-VvgCxeXOvXR-bI1n8OGOFKFRmBwu2FiyMlFljQLuYBwva1SfJ1cfnu7yM8fZzEbct5HdKyiV39ggrqLaggKNswZM8jL-FXDkXAYcBlqv58Zm7tlIwtG1SYvof4/s320/170920121726.jpg" width="304" /></a></div>
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You will need to remove the securing metal tab from your old mirror and install it onto the replacement mirror</div>
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If you cant get the plug end from the donor vehicle you will need to cut off the mirror side part from your old mirror</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1qLySMO0tfbqpTE8bIDfyxC6wwIs-a25v7EZOhmHPQJRVN_IMrSpb7c3zYbin09tm55cI3JTbIW4MBwVdsJCjeA3_b8hicdGiPu0aDYEuV1Unv_L3h7nEi2avM44QP876gtk5rnwE7Ds/s1600/170920121728.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hea="true" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1qLySMO0tfbqpTE8bIDfyxC6wwIs-a25v7EZOhmHPQJRVN_IMrSpb7c3zYbin09tm55cI3JTbIW4MBwVdsJCjeA3_b8hicdGiPu0aDYEuV1Unv_L3h7nEi2avM44QP876gtk5rnwE7Ds/s320/170920121728.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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This is the DII mirror plug, alot different......really try and get the other plug side</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FU1PyXt3PR0/UFopJ5VeyGI/AAAAAAAAAns/BQkUuKSyKBQ/s1600/170920121731.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hea="true" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FU1PyXt3PR0/UFopJ5VeyGI/AAAAAAAAAns/BQkUuKSyKBQ/s320/170920121731.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Don't mess here as this is the compass bit, mess this up ad it wont work</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirn_6_dRFb4sbmETueR71L_EKBVr7HrRvHtjeF0p1tZxpHthuiaGdk303LeB5yzQ4SLoObPclG-NVxl05jDtuBDecyEdTwKqwdD9RpWQ-Ti0-QVuB0h3rdfWy2Ad9v_1AxKldtLCBnGRM/s1600/180920121734.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hea="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirn_6_dRFb4sbmETueR71L_EKBVr7HrRvHtjeF0p1tZxpHthuiaGdk303LeB5yzQ4SLoObPclG-NVxl05jDtuBDecyEdTwKqwdD9RpWQ-Ti0-QVuB0h3rdfWy2Ad9v_1AxKldtLCBnGRM/s320/180920121734.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Installed and works well, not pictured is a tidy up tube added to exposed wires in top of pic</div>
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The three wires on the P38 1994 to 98 is as follows.</div>
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White = Power supply +</div>
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Brown = Negative (Earth)</div>
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Grey = signal from gearbox in reverse (supplies a negative)</div>
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I'll add the D II mirror wire colours and functions 2mrw</div>
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++++++VERY IMPORTANT++++++</div>
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The DII gearbox reverse signal is positive, do not connect yet as I'm scouting for a micro 12 volt relay to convert the signal to positive, the P38 1994 to 98 is negative and needs to be converted to negative for the mirror to come out of dim mode when reversing at night, update to follow very shortly showing how to do this (very simple)</div>
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<span style="color: #ffd966; font-size: large;"><strong>FUEL HOSES (1994 on - GEMs) Critical</strong></span></div>
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<strong><span style="color: #ffd966; font-size: large;">I advise anyone with a GEMs setup to replace as an emergency to do, you must replace your fuel hoses now.</span></strong></div>
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<strong><span style="color: #ffd966; font-size: large;">I know now of 7 P38s that have gone up in flames, one was caught in the nick of time and minor damaged occurred..</span></strong></div>
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<strong><span style="color: #ffd966; font-size: large;">The Rest....total burn outs</span></strong></div>
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<strong><span style="color: #ffd966; font-size: large;">How to do it</span></strong></div>
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<strong><span style="color: black;">But most importantly use High quality hosing and clamps, trust me your spare shop will try and sell you cheap fuel hosing and clamps, go to a hydraulics company and get the best</span></strong></div>
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First remove the plastic bracket retainer to allow for easy access of fuel hose crimp cutting</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-brr8r9Ai-6U/UJKdjlgMNcI/AAAAAAAAArA/FlGBsH7yM4c/s1600/Hose+crimp+cut.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="292" qea="true" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-brr8r9Ai-6U/UJKdjlgMNcI/AAAAAAAAArA/FlGBsH7yM4c/s320/Hose+crimp+cut.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Here we used a mini hand hacksaw to cut through the crimp section, do a Little at a time to ensure you don't cut into the steel hose section</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvSiH7Rtt-WJianF-Glk0cIJsLM_jCwcmKn719v2sLwGgg6Pl4KwpFq8UGyB5tTYi9-sWKG8L1aa6XvZ1ze5kMXpDQlDjfFzmyOG7GgkYaX3AHoz3qA4ByxI0zKfRz3uHGDXf0BquyHV8/s1600/Fuel+hose+crimp+cut.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="236" qea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvSiH7Rtt-WJianF-Glk0cIJsLM_jCwcmKn719v2sLwGgg6Pl4KwpFq8UGyB5tTYi9-sWKG8L1aa6XvZ1ze5kMXpDQlDjfFzmyOG7GgkYaX3AHoz3qA4ByxI0zKfRz3uHGDXf0BquyHV8/s320/Fuel+hose+crimp+cut.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The crimp section is now ready to be prided open using a large bladed screw driver will do it easily, you will need to tear the crimp section that you wernt able to cut, easily done with a pair of pliers.</div>
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really simple and its off, now you can remove the pipe and replace it</div>
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When doing the pipe that is connected to the fuel rail using a pipe fitting it is best to remove and place in a vice to cut the crimp section of the fitting. </div>
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Now a new quality fuel hose can be attached</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjusP-_kjBhRX3uhiOPIqJcBPkkoEE5x1ACpGssWaF951akw_t0U7f6LePS8Bj1dlqlVnhnubXJGU1iUwxiuR2SOUY8YRkYVRCdr5CNQNdnmZ0rsYv3HVG_Rmoct6jNNJzhCKG7MvB-92s/s1600/New+fuel+hose+and+clamps.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" qea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjusP-_kjBhRX3uhiOPIqJcBPkkoEE5x1ACpGssWaF951akw_t0U7f6LePS8Bj1dlqlVnhnubXJGU1iUwxiuR2SOUY8YRkYVRCdr5CNQNdnmZ0rsYv3HVG_Rmoct6jNNJzhCKG7MvB-92s/s320/New+fuel+hose+and+clamps.jpg" width="301" /></a></div>
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New piping and clamps attached, give your self a good half hour to do the job</div>
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DO NOT SKIMP ON QUALITY OF PIPE, there's loads of rubbish out there</div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826950731270008698.post-80953026701875704412012-09-17T15:31:00.002-07:002013-03-05T16:02:44.206-08:00Water leaking into vehicle (Wet carpet) RDH - Further additions to follow very shortlyHave you washed your Rangie or its been raining cats and dogs and now you have wet carpets, well the fix is relatively straight forward but requires attention to detail.<br />
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My personal vehicle always had this problem but I was not able to trace as every time I wanted too take it further the vehicle effected parts had dried up, after moving from Johannesburg or Joburg as our foreign visitors will know it down to the sunshine coastal city of Durban where it can rain a lot and it does…… I one day pounced on the vehicle and solved the riddle.<br />
Without further delay here are my findings and remedy, since the fix there has not been one drop of water or misting up of the windscreen during any type of rain drives recently. <br />
First up you need to remove both wiper blades<br />
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Remove Windscreen side finishers – trim<br />
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Remove windscreen lower finisher – trim<br />
Remove plenum plastics that allow air through the grills and into vehicle (vent intake)<br />
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By now you would have gone through the pictures, important to note that a quality silicon sealant must be used in the sealing up of the effected parts.<br />
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Consult someone who knows sealants and not your spares guys, they will sell and miss inform you just to sell a product, very few parts guys really know anything technical, the rest are know jack shit.<br />
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Do Not be over whelmed by the many picutres below, once you start its not that bad, for a quality repair put aside 5 to 6 hours, if you have someone to help you it goes alot quicker, we charge 4 to 5 hours for this repair, depending if there are no major issues like re-meshing vent intake<br />
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Please note the beow pics are for Right hand drive vehicles but doubt its much different for LHD<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG4O2QI2ZQqCkUF1XC8_mDxxRyQ6To7pAPzL7wb2PSEBQmKy5bA186tNqL8IX5M9fAqDab4Sdj3in7qcoeR1LbjVL5xr_ymFnF1rBm3c-pEln02qn5TvUKbRFTkLEjIsCHNUd6WJIYHPk/s1600/Lower+trim+panel+wet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hea="true" height="179" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG4O2QI2ZQqCkUF1XC8_mDxxRyQ6To7pAPzL7wb2PSEBQmKy5bA186tNqL8IX5M9fAqDab4Sdj3in7qcoeR1LbjVL5xr_ymFnF1rBm3c-pEln02qn5TvUKbRFTkLEjIsCHNUd6WJIYHPk/s320/Lower+trim+panel+wet.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Remove trim from under dash, as circled these are wet patches and is a sure sign that water is leaking in</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ6EWlpINSrqdcrDUUk0B3NIpI75S6aAOC_RkaTBV0zl3GjB2XgJXzIOCzco-2PwtqxQWz61Qh_PbZfY4aK1JU0kZzJvIbHMfW_xfj6KP22Ku86UAr8OYR2Cj1yBehYb2F1-Tr2_cTLI8/s1600/060920121695.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hea="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ6EWlpINSrqdcrDUUk0B3NIpI75S6aAOC_RkaTBV0zl3GjB2XgJXzIOCzco-2PwtqxQWz61Qh_PbZfY4aK1JU0kZzJvIbHMfW_xfj6KP22Ku86UAr8OYR2Cj1yBehYb2F1-Tr2_cTLI8/s320/060920121695.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Wiper arms and lower trim needs to be removed</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FwHdHhLW6TM/UFeTCrMKTyI/AAAAAAAAAkM/p6cOVnrtqhU/s1600/060920121697.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hea="true" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FwHdHhLW6TM/UFeTCrMKTyI/AAAAAAAAAkM/p6cOVnrtqhU/s320/060920121697.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Windscreen side finisher - trim to be removed, there are screws that hold this in place and are hidden under the rubber flap of the trim</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-C8QkL3v5hpw/UFeTZXRzNnI/AAAAAAAAAkU/yMl0VB45ipA/s1600/050920121693.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hea="true" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-C8QkL3v5hpw/UFeTZXRzNnI/AAAAAAAAAkU/yMl0VB45ipA/s320/050920121693.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Once you have all the vent intake trim (Plenum) removed you can start by sealing this section.</div>
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Not in the picture there is a rubber blank that goes in here, apply sealant around edge and insert rubber blank</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2xVYhQZoOMN-FLgTVm4BCGz44-VRadLOmI6cCmpwTkO16GBpt0uXU27vGQfXqcvQoF9kFsAtPreREwXtaVV6HGbBUv7cQkW89g0W6LFmCx46n_ag7-1U5Ou_x4vtBaSgFCsQJEqidRqc/s1600/060920121705.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hea="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2xVYhQZoOMN-FLgTVm4BCGz44-VRadLOmI6cCmpwTkO16GBpt0uXU27vGQfXqcvQoF9kFsAtPreREwXtaVV6HGbBUv7cQkW89g0W6LFmCx46n_ag7-1U5Ou_x4vtBaSgFCsQJEqidRqc/s320/060920121705.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Its all wet and it should not be (Red cross) right circled indicates one of the problems where water seeps past , left circle shows where water has been dripping on to wiper arm mechanism, this should be dry.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrxsfFRp8gf0G5sCguiO921mubu7dZzPNt-0UGl8TobtKhfj6Q5ZFEVBeO8_Id5OicztxW6QhKrrv0HqX-UqkGehN4ZTA8nDkHULCARIGyVeb88X6c940NCXhJTUBkVpf5JAtCFT3j9tk/s1600/060920121700.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hea="true" height="191" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrxsfFRp8gf0G5sCguiO921mubu7dZzPNt-0UGl8TobtKhfj6Q5ZFEVBeO8_Id5OicztxW6QhKrrv0HqX-UqkGehN4ZTA8nDkHULCARIGyVeb88X6c940NCXhJTUBkVpf5JAtCFT3j9tk/s320/060920121700.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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By now you would have inspected and cleaned all the removed parts, this is the steel plate that covers the pollen filter cavity, the circled section is where the water is making its way past the foam seal, in effect this is a bad design that is now only starting to pop up, when it was new all was ok....so we thought.</div>
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As the water works past the foam it absorbs the water and allows it to run along the entire length of the foam seal (blue), this was identified by using a flex mirror to poke under this panel prior to removal, this is only one of the problem areas.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TvqClmxiIo0/UFeWiTS3JCI/AAAAAAAAAks/ATkryD_CaD8/s1600/060920121704.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hea="true" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TvqClmxiIo0/UFeWiTS3JCI/AAAAAAAAAks/ATkryD_CaD8/s320/060920121704.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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All three circles is where the water works past, the right circles is the area that needs serious attention and is detailed in the below picture, the middle is where one of the bolt's goes through that retains the plate in position, the left circle is also a major leak area, all three need proper cleaning and sealing up.</div>
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Sealant needs to be applied with great detail in this area, work the sealant as far up under or up to the windscreen glass edge and along the panel edge, note that the panel was re-installed after cleaning and sealant was applied to the foam seal, DO NOT apply sealant to the foam seal and then mount the panel, if you do it will promote rust in no time</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio4q5tewTQHV8Un8NckTxBddZRgpIhSEjzvnRsyuWtEGznEIZ4SLnvR2DDaPo_e9b_kRWgGQ7i4z9vIYd8lFh5T-NdGmoY9iR_TAZ4-yxzPT7nn9iEoanV-u-Y346EFmFwoFSsXu4QA5I/s1600/060920121707.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hea="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio4q5tewTQHV8Un8NckTxBddZRgpIhSEjzvnRsyuWtEGznEIZ4SLnvR2DDaPo_e9b_kRWgGQ7i4z9vIYd8lFh5T-NdGmoY9iR_TAZ4-yxzPT7nn9iEoanV-u-Y346EFmFwoFSsXu4QA5I/s320/060920121707.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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This part is abit tricky but not dangerous, the plastic piece here is for when the windscreen is replaced and aids the installer to mount the windscreen correctly, this part however needs to be lifted up to allow abit of sealant to be applied underneath, just lift it up a little, one of two tags may give but that's ok as its going to be sealed up anyway, do not try and remove it. The blue indicates how the water works past in this critical and main area of concern</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG5UMx10J8qrnOH7NT_hlDACaMWdpSEPgo1ZFjYFgRfP7Cm5s7TUZKHTa7C9cfHC_AtZF1b928Cb4_-1AFi9xTdGi4mZNnOcqUrDPAlNXVgozlO_izjX0HWeYLmX19ZNBEzobr9qeQEac/s1600/060920121706.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hea="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG5UMx10J8qrnOH7NT_hlDACaMWdpSEPgo1ZFjYFgRfP7Cm5s7TUZKHTa7C9cfHC_AtZF1b928Cb4_-1AFi9xTdGi4mZNnOcqUrDPAlNXVgozlO_izjX0HWeYLmX19ZNBEzobr9qeQEac/s320/060920121706.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Water works its way around and under this plastic screw insert, you need to clean and properly seal around this section. Water here drips past and onto arm (circled) and then drips onto pollen filter where it saturates the filters and pours through the fans into the vehicle.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-W-Anc_Dburs/UFebNqtMRQI/AAAAAAAAAlM/ckeKFGVsU3Y/s1600/050920121682.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hea="true" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-W-Anc_Dburs/UFebNqtMRQI/AAAAAAAAAlM/ckeKFGVsU3Y/s320/050920121682.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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No doubt you know where this is, well its another area that needs attention</div>
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And this is what you need to do, apply and work in the sealant well.</div>
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Assemble the trim panel while the silicon is still not cured as this will allow for better sealing all round, note I even applied sealant into the screw hole.</div>
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Now you can see why you need to seal very well in the previous pictures, this plastic finisher panel was removed and as you can see there is water around (not through) this screw insert, the insert itself does not leak but will do if you use screws which are too long</div>
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At the start I assume you would have removed the pollen filter, if so you can give it a wash or replace.</div>
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To wash simply soak it in a cold bucket of water with abit of dish washing liquid, let soak for awhile and rinse well, leave in the sun to dry while you carry out the sealing up repair.</div>
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It is important to make sure that the pollen filters are installed, failure to do so will allow dust to settle on the fine fins of the AC system and block it up, this in turn will make the AC compressor over work and cause premature failure due to accelerated wear (High duty cycles).</div>
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Three years later after installing the mesh instead of the foam on the vent intake it still looks pretty good, note the absence of leaves, twigs etc, a good rinse out is all it required and the water flowed through the drain channels quickly, mesh repair is detailed on this blog in depth</div>
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Water water everywhere</div>
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To spike you all a cure has been found for the really bad water entry into spare wheel compartment and here is one of the pictures detailing one of five problem areas, the rest is to follow very shortly</div>
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This is a problem on ALL p38s, from 1994 to 2002</div>
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The green indicates ok as this is not the problem area.</div>
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Blue is how the water runs</div>
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Red is where one of the problems start.</div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826950731270008698.post-39735187505646329462012-01-13T07:48:00.000-08:002012-01-13T07:48:04.870-08:00Heater pipe looping due to leaksQuite a number of overheated engines we have carried out repairs on all have come in with the heater pipes removed and the hoses looped, though this is correct the one important problem we have found with this is the incorrect looping of hoses has either been done incorrectly or the hose has been kinked over so much that it hardly allows for the heated coolant to flow to the thermostat for correct temperature regulation of the engine, in effect causing the engine to overheat.<br />
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It is very important that if you carry out the heater core bypass method that there is full flow of the coolant.<br />
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As pictured below you can see that the pipes have been arranged so there is full flow of the coolant<br />
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Another mistake we have noted is the incorrect connecting of these pipes, remember that coolant also flows back out the reservoir bottle too, if the pipe coming from the engine is opposing the flow from the reservoir due incorrect bypassing then this action will cause a mild overheat situation at irregular intervals.<br />
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The below picture is based on the GEMs engine.<br />
On the Thor (Bosch injection) looping the heater pipes involves a bit more but the effect of making sure the flow of coolant is the same as the GEMs, get this wrong and you are 100% guaranteed to blow your engine<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-boqT8UQaaEM/TxBRQ5nQB8I/AAAAAAAAAg8/kCxJePLYlX4/s1600/Coolant+flow+bypass.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" kba="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-boqT8UQaaEM/TxBRQ5nQB8I/AAAAAAAAAg8/kCxJePLYlX4/s320/Coolant+flow+bypass.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826950731270008698.post-56370672669194932642012-01-13T07:36:00.000-08:002014-04-16T14:41:09.448-07:00Rover V8 Rockers (corrected) and bad timing chain (Not BMW or Ford powered LR's)*****UPDATE*****<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">16/04/2014</span><br />
Pats manufacturer /suppliers Bearmach sent a e-mailed and assured me that their new rockers are up to the correct OEM specifications.<br />
I see no reason not to purchase the Bearmach rockers and I would like to thank them for letting us know so we could let you know, they have kindly offered us a full set for testing and will contact them ASAP so we can do a test to determine this issue, just in time as four rebuilds are in progress, one needs a full set of new rockers due to extreme high mileage<br />
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A big thumbs up to Bearmach for the feedback, rare in todays world of parts manufacturers/suppliers.<br />
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As a rule I hate mentioning a part brand but in this case for obvious reasons I’m going to for the simple fact to try save many owners the misery of asking why their motors are burning engine oil or wearing out internal parts sooner than they should due to loss of oil pressure<br />
You would think a simple part like a rocker would be of no concern, well that’s not the case.<br />
Pictures taken whilst engine was running<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-e1gw0cdVW7U/TxBMsYyRPsI/AAAAAAAAAgM/J0m029bV7Bc/s1600/V8+Rockers+too+much+oil+flow+%2528Bearmach%2529+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-e1gw0cdVW7U/TxBMsYyRPsI/AAAAAAAAAgM/J0m029bV7Bc/s320/V8+Rockers+too+much+oil+flow+%2528Bearmach%2529+2.JPG" height="240" kba="true" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-i8I0pWTbx90/TxBM1ibKY5I/AAAAAAAAAgU/UTIoUdtZQko/s1600/V8+Rockers+too+much+oil+flow+%2528Bearmach%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-i8I0pWTbx90/TxBM1ibKY5I/AAAAAAAAAgU/UTIoUdtZQko/s320/V8+Rockers+too+much+oil+flow+%2528Bearmach%2529.JPG" height="240" kba="true" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu_Rryo3DmCZXYaUXOYnxdDxAzNd-kJl5VSvMsMMIM5rW4LN-2Dqeam-ops87Z3bQHfMkgzTV1zGcqC0uGNqkSwtNM4Gh911OwbwPgYhtJVKOdlY1zryN1mlVth8EmMLeYsLf0XG7OwAM/s1600/V8+Rockers+too+much+oil+flow+%2528Bearmach%2529+3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu_Rryo3DmCZXYaUXOYnxdDxAzNd-kJl5VSvMsMMIM5rW4LN-2Dqeam-ops87Z3bQHfMkgzTV1zGcqC0uGNqkSwtNM4Gh911OwbwPgYhtJVKOdlY1zryN1mlVth8EmMLeYsLf0XG7OwAM/s320/V8+Rockers+too+much+oil+flow+%2528Bearmach%2529+3.JPG" height="240" kba="true" width="320" /></a></div>
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Note in the pictures the high flow of oil with Bearmach rockers (first and above pic) vs the originals (middle pic), this excessive oil is flooding the valve stem seals, great for lubricating but there’s another sinister knock off effect to be had when this happens.<br />
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Please note that we did pick up the same issue with Britpart rockers but to date we have not been contacted regarding their issue.<br />
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Jeremy Clarkson is a motor journalist, and a good one at that too, we're a repair shop and our job is to source high quality parts for your vehicle......so whats this all about you ask...... you see Mr Clarkson gets a car to test and his job is to evaluate it in every way possible within a certain category, lets be honest a Rolls Royce is the best car out there vs a Kia something or another with a few quick noddles attached to its tail pipe, whereas a Roller......well it's simply just the ultimate in motoring pleasure.<br />
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Let's get back to the issue at hand...<br />
So while the issue now seems to be resolved with Bearmach this info won't be deleted and is ideal as a case study for future reference.<br />
So...<br />
I may have mentioned the brand's and the cause was simple to see why, the machined groove across (there's two) is too deep which allowed for excessive oil to flow.<br />
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When the engine is up to operating temperature those valve stems get very hot, the oil that passes the valve stem seal is now a bit too much and so a carbon build up is going to occur on the stem, although not right away because you may have just had the heads off and all the valve stem seals were replaced<br />
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As pictured below note the oil flow is a lot less as these are original rockers<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNY_r_XcgijOTwjmfE_DWbV0rnjyX4KS1DdJgu7tFgMOkXyDaPyg8OFHQKVmYo_NSVcI6VPQ5jWImL-AoRgpiw2_MlwNNbzMUIwzEt4o1u8uNCUvfaTxlE5SPkHGHPrOml4WUo1VeduB0/s1600/V8+Rockers+correct+oil+flow.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNY_r_XcgijOTwjmfE_DWbV0rnjyX4KS1DdJgu7tFgMOkXyDaPyg8OFHQKVmYo_NSVcI6VPQ5jWImL-AoRgpiw2_MlwNNbzMUIwzEt4o1u8uNCUvfaTxlE5SPkHGHPrOml4WUo1VeduB0/s320/V8+Rockers+correct+oil+flow.JPG" height="240" kba="true" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh1ZgLPPdFRYeRWFFGoh-q2250S8rdxRBNxj1Kv8uCyWsvkOwlqi9jND2BaOzvyZOodEUN6SwIAjpMr4JZfYDU3ApHWXS8VZagZyqhuhtsKHzSeP4uQhMYIwyckjaOLsGYgcdg0GLNGvM/s1600/V8+Rockers+correct+oil+flow+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh1ZgLPPdFRYeRWFFGoh-q2250S8rdxRBNxj1Kv8uCyWsvkOwlqi9jND2BaOzvyZOodEUN6SwIAjpMr4JZfYDU3ApHWXS8VZagZyqhuhtsKHzSeP4uQhMYIwyckjaOLsGYgcdg0GLNGvM/s320/V8+Rockers+correct+oil+flow+1.JPG" height="240" kba="true" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5deOaWFPMpc/TxBOBjrNtXI/AAAAAAAAAg0/jqIAshBE8i0/s1600/V8+Rockers+correct+oil+flow+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5deOaWFPMpc/TxBOBjrNtXI/AAAAAAAAAg0/jqIAshBE8i0/s320/V8+Rockers+correct+oil+flow+2.JPG" height="240" kba="true" width="320" /></a></div>
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We carried out this investigation because we were not too happy with the oil pressure results and as they say a picture says it all, in this case there is no question where the oil pressure drop was going.<br />
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Always remember to get pressure you have to have a restriction to flow otherwise there is no pressure, when you have pressure you have lubrication.<br />
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On the Rover V8 the camshaft is the first to suffer when there is a pressure drop due to the hydraulic lifters positioning.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><strong>Timing chain update:</strong></span><br />
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Rover V8 timing chain - affects ALL Rover V8s.<br />
This latest update is not all model Land rovers but for all the classic, Defenders, P38's, Disco 1 & 2 fitted with the V8 motors.<br />
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After market timing chain as detailed in the pics below are a cause for concern, these chains are stretching so fast and so much more than the original it kind of defies belief, why, well for starters in today's manufacturing world I see no reason why a chain of this importance is being made to such low standards and hence why on every rebuild or repair job we do relating to anything near a chain we only go original.<br />
One would have thought a chain of this low crap quality would have come out of a low level third world country, sadly it comes from the USA.<br />
Now the weird part is the original chain which does look and is manufactured differently is still made in the USA.....but by whom.<br />
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See for yourself...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1G8YBYKZ0FepiQhHsqv0K7ciCjikJV8eUfrLHgkveO6hzMUOTe7v_sTmwPic4AqgEZw869cN2oz3es8C5Hz1hhYpCBveQtfaMKHoEy9p04ncAZN2pRFLQX8ekSMIM_E2ajo2Q_DQCFbg/s1600/Rover+V8+chain.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1G8YBYKZ0FepiQhHsqv0K7ciCjikJV8eUfrLHgkveO6hzMUOTe7v_sTmwPic4AqgEZw869cN2oz3es8C5Hz1hhYpCBveQtfaMKHoEy9p04ncAZN2pRFLQX8ekSMIM_E2ajo2Q_DQCFbg/s320/Rover+V8+chain.jpg" height="320" qea="true" width="278" /></a></div>
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I have never seen a chain as bad as this before</div>
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Lets go real floppy shall we, will it jump a tooth, you bet it will.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k6CI6W2V5As/UJKX09nIStI/AAAAAAAAAqU/SOM24yslQzY/s1600/Land+Rover+OEM+vs+Aftermarket+chains+-+critical.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k6CI6W2V5As/UJKX09nIStI/AAAAAAAAAqU/SOM24yslQzY/s320/Land+Rover+OEM+vs+Aftermarket+chains+-+critical.jpg" height="200" qea="true" width="320" /></a></div>
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Top chain is Original Land Rover</div>
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Bottom chain is aftermarket</div>
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Yellow oval circle - Solid chain links.</div>
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Red oval circle - Plate links, 2 by side and thinner.</div>
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Left red lines - Pins lined up.....ok so.</div>
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Right yellow lines - Pins no longer line up = stretched chain</div>
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This aftermarket chain was removed at around 10 000ks of installation </div>
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having recently rebuilt my very own V8 motor for my P38 the original chain was strecthed but quarter of what you see in the first picture and that was with 230 000 + km's</div>
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The replacement chain was so badly stretched you could feel when turning the front crank pulley.</div>
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On average the timing chain should be replaced at around 150 000k's, sometimes sooner depending on driving climate...ie more open road driving, chain will last longer vs town stop go all the time</div>
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I hope this persuades all the Rover V8 owners out there to demand or to use Genuine land Rover timing chains, if you cannot afford the original chain then why are you driving a V8 anyway ? </div>
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A tank of fuel costs more than the part, ironically "some" people seem to not know any better...(bangs head on wall) that includes part suppliers too, wake up we dont want to buy your sub standard parts</div>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826950731270008698.post-52363286598753994812011-12-07T13:36:00.000-08:002019-12-12T12:52:33.969-08:00Rover V8 - Critical engine failure from composite valley gasketI'm bringing this very important failure to all those that have or about to embark on a journey to rebuild their Rover V8's, it relates to the composite type valley gasket, in other words the one that has the black rubber finishing as per the pic below.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim9Soxo_1HETGvG6iJ5be7izxNsnV9EXRvbhnlvc52WiuTBsEaeQ7_oAzdnmzeZQuN2EpIWVf_nPaa5mVpAAguQCbJzEu8DridKqusmoE_xg0_J3m9q9NAFikCynqSnbiXRmdAAHxmNMw/s1600/ERR7306-INLET-MANIFOLD-GASKET-V8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="177" mda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim9Soxo_1HETGvG6iJ5be7izxNsnV9EXRvbhnlvc52WiuTBsEaeQ7_oAzdnmzeZQuN2EpIWVf_nPaa5mVpAAguQCbJzEu8DridKqusmoE_xg0_J3m9q9NAFikCynqSnbiXRmdAAHxmNMw/s320/ERR7306-INLET-MANIFOLD-GASKET-V8.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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What if the above valley gasket ended up looking like the one below after a mere 5 months and 8000km's in operation following a full engine rebuild.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXAnWTUSW8BpJZYNZModL83am0ZyUSNJPTZq0vpjYAD_b-0v1glEpDl69TghEGFKdtKpNq0KtYzHQj332X9iPr9O8zD5JYBhmxNvxSHMV_l6M1AEQVjdYC-SgZP8UaNebEjZtrtZpZjOY/s1600/051220111278.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" mda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXAnWTUSW8BpJZYNZModL83am0ZyUSNJPTZq0vpjYAD_b-0v1glEpDl69TghEGFKdtKpNq0KtYzHQj332X9iPr9O8zD5JYBhmxNvxSHMV_l6M1AEQVjdYC-SgZP8UaNebEjZtrtZpZjOY/s320/051220111278.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT7-olBsJQrNPykSMiKMWEXnKl185TMVfd3bW0V3OXfjmeHbB-z-l5OGRwLPlclRspIFtF_4NsFrl1aA3xIBQ2kFc7TW0PoBB9KmnSocYWAJ-ly9N-z-vihZl1FvGD8CV33Q4NHkQGNwY/s1600/051220111279.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" mda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT7-olBsJQrNPykSMiKMWEXnKl185TMVfd3bW0V3OXfjmeHbB-z-l5OGRwLPlclRspIFtF_4NsFrl1aA3xIBQ2kFc7TW0PoBB9KmnSocYWAJ-ly9N-z-vihZl1FvGD8CV33Q4NHkQGNwY/s320/051220111279.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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More...</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-R9q9I53_2JU/Tt-9n7iCgcI/AAAAAAAAAfM/qdS3ZB5FtoQ/s1600/V8+valley+gasket.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="285" mda="true" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-R9q9I53_2JU/Tt-9n7iCgcI/AAAAAAAAAfM/qdS3ZB5FtoQ/s320/V8+valley+gasket.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Not pictured here is the oil pick up which completely blocked up, the result was oil starvation and caused severe damage to camshaft and hydraulic lifters.<br />
The rest of the engine was saved as it was shut down immediately due to a flickering oil light.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUIa-_cFmTkR5JUiZZFxgGFXE7Xz92qwJLY5apLAqSGlTOgAXPUAGsHteC7kPFleGAPzlrZWTLt40pptPqfZgAzSzTkk8M0Q9-O_UKkLRfJVXqUAvyl58r8ER_iOIFq9Rn9jlw884XZsg/s1600/051220111283.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" mda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUIa-_cFmTkR5JUiZZFxgGFXE7Xz92qwJLY5apLAqSGlTOgAXPUAGsHteC7kPFleGAPzlrZWTLt40pptPqfZgAzSzTkk8M0Q9-O_UKkLRfJVXqUAvyl58r8ER_iOIFq9Rn9jlw884XZsg/s320/051220111283.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The 2nd camshaft (with yellow circles) was the original Land Rover part and was as new when the motor was rebuilt, the camshaft to the top of the picture is the new replacement.</div>
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Compare the two and you can see just how severe the damage is.</div>
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Camshaft and hydraulic failure picked after removing sump to investigate possible oil pump failure, the remaining oil in the sump had a silver shimmer which indicated that something was seriously damaged.</div>
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So what happened:</div>
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Bad part, simple and to the point, brand in this case is not important and that includes genuine.</div>
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While I say a bad part is to blame for the above major failure we do need to consider another factor.</div>
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Engine oils, I'm a big fan of quality brand oils</div>
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Why am I pointing to the engine oil..... but should I.</div>
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Today's modern oils have what the industry call "additive package's" to make their oils lubricate and protect our engines better, the problem we have here is that these additives can be quite harmful to old technology parts such as the composite inlet manifold fitted to the Rover V8's. </div>
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In theory I'm not blaming the oil, after all good quality oil is important and I'm not about to change that policy </div>
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Solution:</div>
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Use non composite inlet manifold gasket from a 3.5 V8, yes it is the same port size etc right up to the 4,6</div>
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Install as per workshop manual </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkKPKnskiDtyd_isAL8qiWJHcglARcz53US4qnvqOWPBlkGud1ZQicFin4iQdJBq3BoyQ3Brm6JKA0Qjm-Yapqge0D6sqRvMPLZcVtJnunbcFlnbqNMj6-2WyDdi9Usc01TaFtsYTVAX0/s1600/091220111289.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="223" mda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkKPKnskiDtyd_isAL8qiWJHcglARcz53US4qnvqOWPBlkGud1ZQicFin4iQdJBq3BoyQ3Brm6JKA0Qjm-Yapqge0D6sqRvMPLZcVtJnunbcFlnbqNMj6-2WyDdi9Usc01TaFtsYTVAX0/s320/091220111289.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Non Composite valley gasket.</div>
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If gasket is in plastic wrap please remove, its not a sealing agent</div>
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Gasket is marked "Front" which must face up and to the front of the engine</div>
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If you want it black then use high heat black spray and only do the top (exterior) of the gasket.</div>
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You may use a high quality silicon sealant as we do but only around ports and apply to the thickness of lets say cling wrap, in other words very very thin layer and a mere 3 to 5mm in width (Pic to follow)</div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">Brief history:</span></div>
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Engine rebuilt July 2011</div>
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Engine failed 3rd December 2011</div>
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Engine Oil replaced every 7500km's or sooner depending on condition</div>
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The worst part about the above failure is it happened to my very own Range Rover, one of two that I own (Did)</div>
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No doubt about it I was not impressed and it "seems" that this has never happened before....yeah right.</div>
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The reason for the newer composite gasket is noise suppression, the plain steel type is alot nosier as it transmits through it easier<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcDcu97b_aRHNmDj55AGQKNVQl25NqDMwlO74QDVOT82Y4GHOK-1JtPfTeICMrnWdZVKOPPRqjL3v3R4RaiV9k5JOYjGeluvfJ12RuPxPkNOjOGthXyYDZolTuvwVbQtBBeGMvSnD7ykI/s1600/composite+break+away.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" kba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcDcu97b_aRHNmDj55AGQKNVQl25NqDMwlO74QDVOT82Y4GHOK-1JtPfTeICMrnWdZVKOPPRqjL3v3R4RaiV9k5JOYjGeluvfJ12RuPxPkNOjOGthXyYDZolTuvwVbQtBBeGMvSnD7ykI/s1600/composite+break+away.jpg" /></a></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826950731270008698.post-23873829959390977812011-06-12T15:40:00.000-07:002013-10-07T14:34:40.616-07:00Range Rover models we repair<strong><span style="color: white;">Description of the vehicles we take on for repairs:</span></strong><br />
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<strong>Range Rover:</strong> <br />
Range Rover II (P38) up to current RRIII (L322s aka "Big Body") including Range Rover Sports<br />
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We do not repair Range Rover classic's.<br />
We do not answer over seas e-mails which we have been receiving as different markets vary.<br />
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We are unable to assist in who can repair the above vehicles we do not take on as we operate independently.<br />
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Please also note that we do not provide a phone in technical service<br />
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Also note that the info we have gathered is through our own research and hard work and is for our gain, if you are a independent repairer we are unable to assist in any way with repair and urge you to carry out your own research to keep pace with the fast moving motoring industry like we do.Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826950731270008698.post-2523842736164310372011-04-21T13:11:00.000-07:002012-10-26T10:48:36.367-07:00Range Rover P38 accessories booklet for reference only<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghnmmACi0xbMk9W9w6yyrLKk47Sx4oCWKfRs2LsSPvrj0tpCs6KW7i2CQVgoXm31_3Vz_a_aoyiPymID_SQp93hlPnCJUXYVE9oItSaq-n4hk12up7YJkrbVDaGZHgo3zEXHZzP2f-4kI/s1600/24.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="218" i8="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghnmmACi0xbMk9W9w6yyrLKk47Sx4oCWKfRs2LsSPvrj0tpCs6KW7i2CQVgoXm31_3Vz_a_aoyiPymID_SQp93hlPnCJUXYVE9oItSaq-n4hk12up7YJkrbVDaGZHgo3zEXHZzP2f-4kI/s320/24.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeMMVamnh0OvViZxvb6qrh27xpoY2xZOsmc5B5ImIH62VHJw5DEANS_Li85w2-DVueDOW2KlokwpBSNZY4obRZPHQYd6Y7uk-5t4nv2CjMMcu9pkdjZGsvY1fTHg0lArunoCvcSrV9Ntc/s1600/32.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="147" i8="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeMMVamnh0OvViZxvb6qrh27xpoY2xZOsmc5B5ImIH62VHJw5DEANS_Li85w2-DVueDOW2KlokwpBSNZY4obRZPHQYd6Y7uk-5t4nv2CjMMcu9pkdjZGsvY1fTHg0lArunoCvcSrV9Ntc/s320/32.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hc5FdQ-BXAQ/TbF-ypqV2qI/AAAAAAAAAdU/-rt-eHJ25yM/s1600/4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" i8="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hc5FdQ-BXAQ/TbF-ypqV2qI/AAAAAAAAAdU/-rt-eHJ25yM/s320/4.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-lvmvMjCrcvxKYQ5QJlAtLHnG0bpwnWt5YiIhYKuCOr1CttgGRwfR4UgTlqr1yaDxOaZKUhHCvNVyYwLMzurk2QCCLgFruZp4_E1iGscfGsFrnbWnjCZDK5RwOes6Exc8SsnoEbSKlgw/s1600/18.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="226" i8="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-lvmvMjCrcvxKYQ5QJlAtLHnG0bpwnWt5YiIhYKuCOr1CttgGRwfR4UgTlqr1yaDxOaZKUhHCvNVyYwLMzurk2QCCLgFruZp4_E1iGscfGsFrnbWnjCZDK5RwOes6Exc8SsnoEbSKlgw/s320/18.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTx82B8bi6qQEQBPc3XxGoWnLUZG97KAqGj6HaHgLn2kQkyyebAVzmmRG9uqfMmIdUxi0PKdPBbJsCgArdL_ZBIrUPrrJugU-Ou04M8moYxhWGo3WgbPrYx4Bg6Cj2hRwHyuNXwX6H9fo/s1600/P38+cat.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="224" i8="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTx82B8bi6qQEQBPc3XxGoWnLUZG97KAqGj6HaHgLn2kQkyyebAVzmmRG9uqfMmIdUxi0PKdPBbJsCgArdL_ZBIrUPrrJugU-Ou04M8moYxhWGo3WgbPrYx4Bg6Cj2hRwHyuNXwX6H9fo/s320/P38+cat.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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More to come but just a taster for those who are addicted to the vehicle that brought a new meaning to "Comfort 4X4's" or as most would say "Luxury 4X4's.<br />
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This is a scanned original catalog of what "was" available at the time, if you dig deep you may still be able to find the odd "A Bar" (one in stock, rare)<br />
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From research there are some bits and pieces still available to buy new like interior wood finish, although aftermarket it does look good and made to a high quality.<br />
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Front door wind deflectors no longer available, if you know where we can sourse these please let us know<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWkthyphenhyphen0T6TzZ2qimdbepRxmkeFzFmIfIiTBYqVPOJ6Ez6-4pUjfSvJdy_Adh0489AhR44iTzyTPJ_V-WYytAilccc-YDpuHA8i9_o8tAOucqM1BX0c2tCzUYfmR2_UGCR7ujT9t6Mbv8M/s1600/P38+Wind+deflectors.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" i8="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWkthyphenhyphen0T6TzZ2qimdbepRxmkeFzFmIfIiTBYqVPOJ6Ez6-4pUjfSvJdy_Adh0489AhR44iTzyTPJ_V-WYytAilccc-YDpuHA8i9_o8tAOucqM1BX0c2tCzUYfmR2_UGCR7ujT9t6Mbv8M/s320/P38+Wind+deflectors.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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P38 wind deflectors, only fronts are available.<br />
Great for when its raining and you still like to have the window open a little<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpN0Mlf-pL-ZVBbPPc9HKceGAlOnTwtc6KAOAez0sojqbruIfhkLtcKaufHzYv_-xO4wb0_CGHNkkzSZUjmYTWy6z3CGq4H0AJAzymQFE6BKtGZCpJ_5zUq9yvW_nefTax2zkWdti7vZw/s1600/3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="223" i8="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpN0Mlf-pL-ZVBbPPc9HKceGAlOnTwtc6KAOAez0sojqbruIfhkLtcKaufHzYv_-xO4wb0_CGHNkkzSZUjmYTWy6z3CGq4H0AJAzymQFE6BKtGZCpJ_5zUq9yvW_nefTax2zkWdti7vZw/s320/3.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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More of this catalog to follow soon</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826950731270008698.post-16406919090015252172011-04-04T13:32:00.000-07:002019-12-12T12:57:48.686-08:00Rover V8 engine - updated Oct 2012 (Bottom of page)Please refer to important update regarding timing chains <a href="http://rangeroverworld.blogspot.com/2012/01/rover-v8-rockers-not-bmw-or-ford-power.html">HERE</a><br />
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We seem to be having a sudden surge of engine rebuilds coming in so I thought for a change we'll snap away and post up some pics for you all too see.<br />
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After all we may as well have fun showing you how we go about rebuilding these great engines.<br />
I highly doubt there are other re builders that give attention to detail as we do on these fine V8's.<br />
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Every single part is stripped down to as far as we can go including the front timing cover oil pump housing and checking the clearance on the rotor parts, on the cover very few realise there are two oil pressure control plungers that require inspecting, here again O rings are replaced as age without a doubt causes oil leaks on the round inserts that is retained by Circlips.<br />
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If your engine is oily up front its a sure sign these O rings have had it along with the front crank seal or possibly by now ALL the gaskets need replacing.<br />
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I'm not going into deep detail so I'll just post some pics to show you all how bad these engines get.<br />
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If your motor is hitting around the 230 000km or 160 000mile mark and its had some "extended" service oil changes (Overdue) then chances are its going to look like the one below....<br />
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There's only one reason why these motors look so bad......bad maintenance and cheap oil, be it by a DIY'er or a independent workshop, now you'll understand why I go on about quality of oil so much....yeah I know I never stop going on about it........it seriously is that important<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjctk_DyvFjikK66CZ0jFYsj245btcOjcAfejfcf6zsbBMMtTK-nbf45jBqXPIWbN-9qf3KTADVefOUTly3ININ7fCqDkrTk8PuaKlA4Ft8jSM27BIxTJ7OK3_rEXs4ufM8r5Xrde6Icy0/s1600/eng+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" r6="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjctk_DyvFjikK66CZ0jFYsj245btcOjcAfejfcf6zsbBMMtTK-nbf45jBqXPIWbN-9qf3KTADVefOUTly3ININ7fCqDkrTk8PuaKlA4Ft8jSM27BIxTJ7OK3_rEXs4ufM8r5Xrde6Icy0/s320/eng+1.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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As we started stripping it was clear all was not well..</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cbKw6qXGf_M/TZomuqCJcPI/AAAAAAAAAZk/G5CWRG4SST8/s1600/eng+1a.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="208" r6="true" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cbKw6qXGf_M/TZomuqCJcPI/AAAAAAAAAZk/G5CWRG4SST8/s320/eng+1a.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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High sludge build up like this is a sure sign this motor is well worn.</div>
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To aid in preventing this happening we remove the catalytic converters which become blocked up over time and add restriction to the exhaust resulting in severe back pressure, it has to go somewhere and this is where it ends up, past the valve stem seals and back into the engine</div>
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But its not the main reason this motor looks so bad, not the worst I've done in the past.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lCmlaeJWMEQ/TZomyoGf-5I/AAAAAAAAAZo/fLCQkcOA7AM/s1600/eng+1b.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" r6="true" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lCmlaeJWMEQ/TZomyoGf-5I/AAAAAAAAAZo/fLCQkcOA7AM/s320/eng+1b.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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These tappet covers will be cleaned and sand blasted and then sprayed to bring them back up like new again.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9_lLxb_AMZY/TZom52b8vqI/AAAAAAAAAZs/PI_Gu6ubXyQ/s1600/eng+1c.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" r6="true" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9_lLxb_AMZY/TZom52b8vqI/AAAAAAAAAZs/PI_Gu6ubXyQ/s320/eng+1c.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Clearly someone was here before us, silicone sealant on a composite gasket and clearly a cheap repair. </div>
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In this state we expect the worst and I wasn't wrong.</div>
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This is clearly a bad repair gone wrong, if this was a mechanic then his/her certification should be withdrawn. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw7Mve-6sCn2RoWuuus2Sez87shwhFAWY0TGsl7sMweDQb8c2wFKumuADv94jQ9zfx7TYd6Lk2rulWTCcG7ZchDlJQBa870zdTzJUpvQvqzs3h86T3hk9bJXbyToTzlJn8vgyxIYJ1Os0/s1600/eng+1d.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" r6="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw7Mve-6sCn2RoWuuus2Sez87shwhFAWY0TGsl7sMweDQb8c2wFKumuADv94jQ9zfx7TYd6Lk2rulWTCcG7ZchDlJQBa870zdTzJUpvQvqzs3h86T3hk9bJXbyToTzlJn8vgyxIYJ1Os0/s320/eng+1d.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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More of the red stuff, (cheap junk) it was plastered all over the engine....</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qo2o6Z2Fy_0/TZonCnOywYI/AAAAAAAAAZ0/tTg3omWqUGw/s1600/eng+1e.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" r6="true" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qo2o6Z2Fy_0/TZonCnOywYI/AAAAAAAAAZ0/tTg3omWqUGw/s320/eng+1e.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Dirty stuff.....not good....note how badly worn the bearing shells are</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5xqvAJXNwoO-zASNbCSrzjws1EPOVy6qSIyy3vR6cnGPUvKO5nyKFNnVLMLwfEGJIHvbH-gOhLbt-fzrPm94lOIlB6IpxKiUCWy16dqzJktNqYVThTTy7VgEFZ6pTF4Egp7WdYbt7BvM/s1600/eng+1f.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" r6="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5xqvAJXNwoO-zASNbCSrzjws1EPOVy6qSIyy3vR6cnGPUvKO5nyKFNnVLMLwfEGJIHvbH-gOhLbt-fzrPm94lOIlB6IpxKiUCWy16dqzJktNqYVThTTy7VgEFZ6pTF4Egp7WdYbt7BvM/s320/eng+1f.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Despite the bad state of this motor the cross hatching is still very clear with no severe glazing taken place, the block is yet to be measured up to see if a quick light hone with a flex honer will do, my guess is it will be ok to hone without re-sleeving. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzI2Dp3r2U5XQguBqHwydkzIyKqVuRzOSM-IJmWsaY1R_f1BfSwI2RAHOQCaOdDkNCRSBIWNQ0jg1VFnR0g4ldCZfAQIgiIKSmKplZrgTxA-0FlipfKf34QeiyRUxPaZsf2lGVSjzpaZg/s1600/eng+1h.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" r6="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzI2Dp3r2U5XQguBqHwydkzIyKqVuRzOSM-IJmWsaY1R_f1BfSwI2RAHOQCaOdDkNCRSBIWNQ0jg1VFnR0g4ldCZfAQIgiIKSmKplZrgTxA-0FlipfKf34QeiyRUxPaZsf2lGVSjzpaZg/s320/eng+1h.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
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Pistons will be chemically cleaned and inspected, here again it all looks good but the camshaft is no longer usable as 2 lobes are severely worn, new is the way to go along with new Clevitt hydraulic lifters.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M__QfUzwuSY/TZonRqwOKeI/AAAAAAAAAaA/f53jRsx5Kss/s1600/eng+1j.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" r6="true" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M__QfUzwuSY/TZonRqwOKeI/AAAAAAAAAaA/f53jRsx5Kss/s320/eng+1j.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Overall condition of pistons shows that compression was good (It sounded willing before stripping), the only issue here is the rings were overwhelmed by the extra oil splashed up by the badly worn main and big end bearings</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAWXz70UOF-3bTsIFyF_CVbNAMLndvPgYUZlg-Rli3-ePYq-YOtLJ1yxF3DdGaGlLRg6LK-KiQW5nSF-oq4Dlkt9ECarP8J5Fh5W3-w_Yd7TUC-KCRrldq8sWRK7YPtCdWvgRrJ1U2VNc/s1600/JS+Proof.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="230" r6="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAWXz70UOF-3bTsIFyF_CVbNAMLndvPgYUZlg-Rli3-ePYq-YOtLJ1yxF3DdGaGlLRg6LK-KiQW5nSF-oq4Dlkt9ECarP8J5Fh5W3-w_Yd7TUC-KCRrldq8sWRK7YPtCdWvgRrJ1U2VNc/s320/JS+Proof.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Severe carbon/sludge build up, yipe nasty cheapo oils and lack of oil changes does this.</div>
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according to the engineering company heads are good (valves, guides and seats) when we stripped off the heads there were signs that the heads had been off previously, I'm now hoping that all is well with the head bolt threads as they were severely over tightened to a point where three bolts snapped on removal but we got them out...ouch and lucky indeed.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZOqFXM9_3_LFIloCzDHIzVApsVGKMnMwekQAZp9z4_jkVQ13t-_A_mhy9SB0T_JF6m9ojg-i104sPO8KutuFsPfPMS9-mujyz9upl65JhX5CUHixR_q7GANahGDrr_CaQBfzzim3OUNE/s1600/Timing+cover+V8.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="247" r6="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZOqFXM9_3_LFIloCzDHIzVApsVGKMnMwekQAZp9z4_jkVQ13t-_A_mhy9SB0T_JF6m9ojg-i104sPO8KutuFsPfPMS9-mujyz9upl65JhX5CUHixR_q7GANahGDrr_CaQBfzzim3OUNE/s320/Timing+cover+V8.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Pity I didn't take a snap of this timing cover before it was cleaned, stripped, inspected and cleaned again.</div>
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Even inside the oil pump it looked like the pictures above this one and is not normal even on a worn engine</div>
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The oil pump rotor and housing passed the clearance check with flying colours which tells me it was replaced at some point.</div>
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TIP: If you have low oil pressure don't straight away suspect the oil pump, other factors like worn cam shaft and cam bearings need to be considered, big and main ends will need considering but don't forget the rockers, shafts and hydraulic lifters also play an important part in keeping oil pressure up.</div>
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Changing oil before it gets dirty is critical to any engine but so is the quality of the oil..</div>
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Another tip: Had a call from a desperate owner who just rebuilt his own engine, after 500km's his oil light flickered on idle, after numerous questions I came upon another important question "Did you replace the timing cover gasket" His Answer "No, I just applied Silicon" need I say more, the failure of oil pressure due to a simple low cost gasket can ruin a rebuilt engine in no time, its one of the many reasons why a engine rebuild should be entrusted to pros like us, on average we recheck everything three times, no chances are taken as alot of time and money goes into rebuilding engines.</div>
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I'll also add that rebuilding these engines are not that profitable but we enjoy it all the same.</div>
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Anyway.....</div>
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Every part of the motors will be cleaned and inspected to like new condition, yes I know I said it before..<br />
Non of our cleaning involves sand or bead blasting apart from the engineering company, we use special chemicals that is safe to use on aluminium and is very effective in removing stubborn carbon.<br />
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Another successful engine rebuild buy us here at <span style="color: red;"><strong>"WILLIAMS 4X4"</strong></span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-e1TWdpJ_L5Y/TgcbgvmtvsI/AAAAAAAAAd4/A6-8r5UnuhQ/s1600/03032011185.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="217" i="i" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-e1TWdpJ_L5Y/TgcbgvmtvsI/AAAAAAAAAd4/A6-8r5UnuhQ/s320/03032011185.jpg" true="true" width="320" /></a></div>
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Rusty water pump impeller means that this motor ran without anti freeze for sometime</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5USBgTdzycs/TgcbtU2EAOI/AAAAAAAAAd8/Hn5zKASlIV4/s1600/03032011183.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" i="i" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5USBgTdzycs/TgcbtU2EAOI/AAAAAAAAAd8/Hn5zKASlIV4/s320/03032011183.jpg" true="true" width="320" /></a></div>
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Oil leaks everywhere along with red silicone sealant means this motor was worked on before and doubt the attention to detail was lacking it should have received.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj28V4_yPoV_MXetizh1PoTjCYxH1MNaokHvqmg-ehL17pMA83HBaEu1VyATVkRweamLNDPNmz7pk5uKjtZnbwWEZX-ydqRcjsrp46Vp9Qd7wWem0cH2Gyh5rfVdVtLQN8z4a5hrSbNKLY/s1600/03032011188.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" i="i" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj28V4_yPoV_MXetizh1PoTjCYxH1MNaokHvqmg-ehL17pMA83HBaEu1VyATVkRweamLNDPNmz7pk5uKjtZnbwWEZX-ydqRcjsrp46Vp9Qd7wWem0cH2Gyh5rfVdVtLQN8z4a5hrSbNKLY/s320/03032011188.jpg" true="true" width="320" /></a></div>
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Utter mess.....say no more and we'll have this looking like new in and out.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MfPxeUGPp8w/Tgcb_myZnFI/AAAAAAAAAeE/TzhF1fHKTxU/s1600/03032011186.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" i="i" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MfPxeUGPp8w/Tgcb_myZnFI/AAAAAAAAAeE/TzhF1fHKTxU/s320/03032011186.jpg" true="true" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQuDjfPuAaSkylDMatEbOKu6UyHIwmwyNsoEEzpzThBROqfdBJnQIPMhSyzynxf2xBP5YjQnqt7ykPEytMxiGN6NBt6I4PvmHc9dz6pqUFKfRxDGg6jRvNnt1OkcHJPF1nBaTCDKKVAxY/s1600/03032011189.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" i="i" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQuDjfPuAaSkylDMatEbOKu6UyHIwmwyNsoEEzpzThBROqfdBJnQIPMhSyzynxf2xBP5YjQnqt7ykPEytMxiGN6NBt6I4PvmHc9dz6pqUFKfRxDGg6jRvNnt1OkcHJPF1nBaTCDKKVAxY/s320/03032011189.jpg" true="true" width="320" /></a></div>
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Red silicone on the valley gasket area means somebody was here that didn't have a clue what they were doing, I see alot of this on DIY repairs as owners are to tight fisted to do it correctly</div>
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****UPDATE****</div>
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First up......Rover V8 timing chains.......</div>
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USE ONLY GENUINE LAND ROVER CHAINS.</div>
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If you use aftermarket chains you will need to replace after 5000ks, seriously they are that rubbish.</div>
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The Aftermarket chains wear so badly fast it starts hitting the timing cover and eating into it.</div>
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If it does this long enough it will eat through to the water channel and you will have water in oil mix </div>
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2004 Discovery engine rebuild from 4.0 to 4.6 high compression</div>
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The below pic is not from the disco engine but bearings were as pictured below, engine with 106 000 k's.</div>
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Cause of wear: Oil pump</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFLAvtVzDLQXg2PtYOiFdm9NAjN7hG2A2fkwwN-vdgLSVb5WZQa3aYYduiTxpSAIN6eqZijAkAVRfDOAXxg_yeYmP-K5IViW30C_d53rztFVpSojzbW9BaYrlq4U7ltBR_saLc9jWN4EU/s1600/Rover+V8+bearings.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFLAvtVzDLQXg2PtYOiFdm9NAjN7hG2A2fkwwN-vdgLSVb5WZQa3aYYduiTxpSAIN6eqZijAkAVRfDOAXxg_yeYmP-K5IViW30C_d53rztFVpSojzbW9BaYrlq4U7ltBR_saLc9jWN4EU/s320/Rover+V8+bearings.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Hydraulic liters.</div>
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Yes those little round steel tube like parts are vey important in any rebuild.</div>
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We only install Clevitt Hydraulic lifters.</div>
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White box lifters supplied by various suppliers are not worth touching.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6fmnWjuN4iw/UIwwANVRAII/AAAAAAAAAoI/dPw9FLLUa_Q/s1600/Range+Rover+Hydraulic+lifters.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" oea="true" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6fmnWjuN4iw/UIwwANVRAII/AAAAAAAAAoI/dPw9FLLUa_Q/s320/Range+Rover+Hydraulic+lifters.jpg" width="243" /></a></div>
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Clevitt Hydraulic lifters are the best, the finished swirl marks on top circled in red is for lifter rotation.</div>
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Its important to note that if a new cam is installed then lifters must be replaced, you cannot install new lifters without replacing the cam, both MUST be replaced together at the same time.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDzD6UFJAx9KgtU9p10TDYVRr2urgDICmjx2x6SeCRsfuBRrk71CbXncRRS83Rpos61Jg-6cxWqGjkWKHo6WvFY7MXkbSENgOKRGUsh1nvglLgkpF675XnY26JapuZDVO5kh_VJfiohC4/s1600/Range+Rover+V8+Hyd+and+cam.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" oea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDzD6UFJAx9KgtU9p10TDYVRr2urgDICmjx2x6SeCRsfuBRrk71CbXncRRS83Rpos61Jg-6cxWqGjkWKHo6WvFY7MXkbSENgOKRGUsh1nvglLgkpF675XnY26JapuZDVO5kh_VJfiohC4/s320/Range+Rover+V8+Hyd+and+cam.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
Adding lots of oil to the new parts is very important.<br />
Adding so called assembly cam lube (Red) is oddly enough not made by any of the big oil brands so use it if you really must,</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826950731270008698.post-79368615365392229762010-06-15T00:04:00.000-07:002012-01-24T08:11:49.706-08:00Front and rear wheel bearing'sEventually a batch of wheel bearings have arrived for a new life rolling Range Rovers around town and country side. Dealer prices on these hub units is around R7900 and that's just plain mad.<br />
<br />
At any time we have two front and rear hubs in stock with new bearings pressed in. <br />
If your Range Rover has 160 000km or more its time to replace these hubs, some will argue that this is not true but once you replace the hubs you'll soon understand and agree to feel the difference.<br />
After replacing front and rear hubs on my own P38 it has made a very noticeable difference to fuel economy, performance and overall feel of the vehicle.<br />
<br />
We send the hubs to a engineering company for bearing replacement, this company have made up a few special tools to ensure quality replacement and they understand our strict quality requirements, its one of the reasons why we deal with them is because their standards are naturally high.<br />
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Once the old bearing is pressed out of the hub, the unit is then sand blasted using glass, cleaned and then a new bearing pressed in, finally a nice coat of gloss black paint is added for protection and even here we don't use cheap paint.<br />
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We offer these as a exchange only.<br />
Your hub must be original and no attempt to remove the old bearing.<br />
If your hub is not in original condition we are unable to do a exchange.<br />
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Front and rear in stock, see parts section for pricing<br />
NOTE: Hubs are sided (pics of front only)<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KDWKPtOZxao/TBchn4PqygI/AAAAAAAAAVA/hr5L9wUl7E4/s1600/RR+various+003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" qu="true" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KDWKPtOZxao/TBchn4PqygI/AAAAAAAAAVA/hr5L9wUl7E4/s320/RR+various+003.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Refurbed hub </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KDWKPtOZxao/TBch5jzQU9I/AAAAAAAAAVI/wrbhkWbWtcQ/s1600/RR+various+006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" qu="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KDWKPtOZxao/TBch5jzQU9I/AAAAAAAAAVI/wrbhkWbWtcQ/s320/RR+various+006.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Every corner is sandblasted, rust is a metal destroyer</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_KDWKPtOZxao/TBciLZX6X7I/AAAAAAAAAVQ/JNiGuy3vb5Y/s1600/RR+various+004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" qu="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_KDWKPtOZxao/TBciLZX6X7I/AAAAAAAAAVQ/JNiGuy3vb5Y/s320/RR+various+004.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Even the flange face is sand blasted</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglTz3BmVXiRavpqQFVNqUsOLsapLPiKHdhEwnJSAWNGghZ8zill1MCSUcGgjw8NTisqNWz-UzltI5dRAlnH6kM5FjOP1FyLO5R54T0HNil55Wc4463-j3Mv5JeHuNbgHPKVpmcY_mmK5M/s1600/RR+various+001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" qu="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglTz3BmVXiRavpqQFVNqUsOLsapLPiKHdhEwnJSAWNGghZ8zill1MCSUcGgjw8NTisqNWz-UzltI5dRAlnH6kM5FjOP1FyLO5R54T0HNil55Wc4463-j3Mv5JeHuNbgHPKVpmcY_mmK5M/s320/RR+various+001.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">New bearing within hub</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO1PHYXqhAiib3mtImbKWvM2S_T4ZJULbdtlNpLuEpHYfYrX0IjSvci22W5q_5km4RyEcuXPZhQ0y2bbISVU9nOkVl1uJEhJDwKErRymo34qk80_-sSfxGjMolxhA9HmvPERyL5tXD90I/s1600/RR+various+008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" qu="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO1PHYXqhAiib3mtImbKWvM2S_T4ZJULbdtlNpLuEpHYfYrX0IjSvci22W5q_5km4RyEcuXPZhQ0y2bbISVU9nOkVl1uJEhJDwKErRymo34qk80_-sSfxGjMolxhA9HmvPERyL5tXD90I/s320/RR+various+008.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">The final product, spray painted for protection</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNLOLMiQbbfBvaj8KJImmPGWY-S1ZztNM259_KVpr5FkU6lt0Hdlfg50Xt5Xo9vdN26Fw-dCUmxgSY4hr1Ek6sq6SQNRCh6VVrxgKuL_uDW4U88tfCl32HifAy5FWNiev7pSddAJhrBbI/s1600/RR+various+007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" qu="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNLOLMiQbbfBvaj8KJImmPGWY-S1ZztNM259_KVpr5FkU6lt0Hdlfg50Xt5Xo9vdN26Fw-dCUmxgSY4hr1Ek6sq6SQNRCh6VVrxgKuL_uDW4U88tfCl32HifAy5FWNiev7pSddAJhrBbI/s320/RR+various+007.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">And another boring picture of a hub</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KDWKPtOZxao/TBcjMFaW3dI/AAAAAAAAAVw/NxUt5n7wrPU/s1600/RR+various+009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" qu="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KDWKPtOZxao/TBcjMFaW3dI/AAAAAAAAAVw/NxUt5n7wrPU/s320/RR+various+009.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">All back together, what a difference</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">*Previous attempts by customers pressing out old bearings have resulted in the hub unit being warped thereby making the old hub useless as it has been distorted by heat, special jigs have been made up to ensure precise fitment of these bearings which require extreme force to press out and press in new bearings, heat can and does make the steel loose its tension ability and if a bearing is pressed into a de-stressed hub the bearing outer race will soon work loose resulting in premature failure. </div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826950731270008698.post-42396290482779780292010-05-23T02:25:00.000-07:002012-10-26T10:48:07.289-07:00EAS diaphragm <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhchLJXQH6bBF7ujpHL6uoqTpcbHc5IHQvHZRDFRSNNiyfkV10f6zf2GgpNYLHfMeRM0iWifrAzlUKi3-zr0itkxMQbPtPeZbho4rAXvZ59XI4BooPG5oiXrFBooXCaHjJUSaq_7Ds-qxQ/s1600/EAS+Diaphragm.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" gu="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhchLJXQH6bBF7ujpHL6uoqTpcbHc5IHQvHZRDFRSNNiyfkV10f6zf2GgpNYLHfMeRM0iWifrAzlUKi3-zr0itkxMQbPtPeZbho4rAXvZ59XI4BooPG5oiXrFBooXCaHjJUSaq_7Ds-qxQ/s320/EAS+Diaphragm.JPG" /></a></div>
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The genuine part (Pic A)</div>
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Aluminium retainer ring is there for a reason</div>
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Our background on pneumatics goes back a long way and we can truly say we are air suspension specialists and proud of it, saving you time and money and hassles in the long run. <br />
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826950731270008698.post-74337854883184872992010-05-22T23:26:00.000-07:002010-07-29T16:05:28.526-07:00Electrical connections<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAY7t7HfpYohDOSLlbwUvachGTsSgKaSMrkVmY48Y8pIy2csbKWmLUzGGym_6dMN9lKFJn40SkTB-0BxiRPMooF3eSi6JijxzqwWMtjI0o4EclxZrVSst43X5ycF80hheVbxWW5GLkxGI/s1600/Fuse+box+solder.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" gu="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAY7t7HfpYohDOSLlbwUvachGTsSgKaSMrkVmY48Y8pIy2csbKWmLUzGGym_6dMN9lKFJn40SkTB-0BxiRPMooF3eSi6JijxzqwWMtjI0o4EclxZrVSst43X5ycF80hheVbxWW5GLkxGI/s320/Fuse+box+solder.jpg" /></a></div><br />
In the above picture the main fuse box power supply cable has been soldered but underneath there are another three BeCM power cables that should also be soldered and under the right seat on the BeCM the connectors there also benefit from re-crimping soldering, the benefits are worth the effort.<br />
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In typical fashion all electrical circuits will benefit from a slight tweaking and soldering is one of them.<br />
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Crimped joints over time develop tarnish; this tarnish is a typical and natural occurrence with copper and ends up building a resistance to current flow, this restriction to current flow can cause damage to components from overheating as it throttles the circuit of current.<br />
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Tarnish can and does cause all manner of odd operations on vehicle from dimly glowing lights to odd operation of complex electronically operated or controlled devices. <br />
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The Range Rover is not immune to these problems as age, time and climate all have undesirable affects on these part's and joins and it’s now starting to show up in true old car fashion.<br />
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When soldering the lead flows in between the gaps of the wiring and the lug, this in turn produces a clean connection where electricity can now flow without resistance.<br />
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If the problem is left for too long the resistance can increase and cause damage in the form of heat on the affected area and load demand where a electrical component requires more current, if the electronic part is starved of sufficient power it too will over load and blow.<br />
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So it all has a roll on effect right from the start when the alternator starts to produce power<br />
Even this simple lead from alternator to battery can cause misery with charging.<br />
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On many cars you will see additional cables being added and the main area always seems to be earth straps either from chassis to engine or chassis to battery negative but the positive is also at times boosted with more cabling.<br />
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Most times if the affected cable is simply removed and the contact area lightly sanded then cable lug soldered it would solve most of the problems, very rarely is the actual cable at fault and is often accused of being the culprit.<br />
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Auto electricians do this so you can see what they have done and can justify ripping you off.<br />
In a nut shell soldering joins is a very good action to take but there are procedures to follow before simply grabbing your soldering iron and jamming your cables with solder.<br />
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1) Be sure to remove any muck on cables, use a electrical cleaner or if that’s not available carb cleaner or thinners works well.<br />
2) Use a quality ratchet type crimp tool to re crimp joins before soldering.<br />
3) Solder quality is important, the cheaper solders you can get just don’t cut the grade, silver solder is the best if you are unable to get decent normal solder but it comes at high price tag.<br />
4) Small soldering irons are ok for small wire connections but not for the larger lugs, larger 80watt and up soldering irons are expensive but will pay for itself once all the work is done considering the cost if a auto electrician has to do it, even they at times don’t have all the right equipment despite it being their game.<br />
5) Do not over solder joins as there is no benefit, just enough is right and too much will cause the solder to flow down the cable and make it hard.<br />
6) Carrying out this repair requires time and patience, if you don’t have any then let someone who has patience do it for you.<br />
7) Don’t always assume once you have done this important operation you will now have a racing car at the flick of a switch cos it wont be, in my case I was fortunate to notice a difference, some will, some wont.<br />
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Either way it’s a good thing for the future and immediate life of the components.Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826950731270008698.post-77455347599385233622010-04-02T05:58:00.000-07:002010-07-29T16:08:32.338-07:00Coolant overflow pipe modWe all know that a anti-freeze/summer coolant is important in cooling systems on any engine, so great off we go knowing that the engine is well protected, as part of the cooling system there is a overflow to allow excessive coolant mixture to flow out if over filled or to vent excessive air pressure as the engine warms up.<br />
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Great, its designed like that but on P38s this vent pipe is badly positioned because as the cooling system starts to vent it does so where there are electrical connectors etc, in the pictures you'll notice two connections and if you separate these (depending on age) you're sure to find corrosion as I did on mine.<br />
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These connectors are various inputs into the engine ECU and could give a bad signal.<br />
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The mod is very simple and takes around 2 minutes<br />
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</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826950731270008698.post-41789718051065649852010-03-07T02:57:00.000-08:002012-02-05T07:22:31.724-08:00Cooling system (With gruesome pics)IMPORTANT UPDATE:<br />
We are now starting to replace radiators on early (95 on) and later model P38s as well as Discovery 1-2 vehicles at a rapid rate.<br />
If you own a P38 or Discovery 1-2 model then you need to consider if your cooling system is in top condition, if in doubt as the doc says seek urgent technical advice and still in doubt replace or service radiator either way.<br />
A failing radiator will destroy a good engine in no time, at speed on a high way a burst pipe can cause severe damage in 15 seconds<br />
<br />
and onto the original post.....<br />
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Cooling is very critical to the performance and life of any engine.<br />
Any internal or external blockage of sorts can seriously damage the engine to a point that it becomes useless, in other words the engine can be written off due to heat stress damage etc, believe me this happens more often than you would care to think and it can and probably will happen to everyone at some point, care and attention will prevent this from happening to you now or in the future.<br />
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Additives to the cooling system like radiator block leaks etc are at best a very temporary solution and should not be left in the system for long no matter what the brand/manufacturer says on the container, remember they want to sell there product and we tend to believe what we read on these well packaged products. <br />
<br />
Every cooling system should be flushed thoroughly every 2 years but more often in severe dusty environments, you may think the coolant reservoir is clear but its in the engine block where most if not all the dust and other debris settles to the bottom of the block creating hot spots.<br />
Hot spots will then cause your engine to loose power and use more fuel, its a delicate balance that’s very often over looked by mechanics and DIYers in all sectors.<br />
<br />
Having previously worked and qualified on Earth moving equipment like CAT, Komatsu etc we used to change water filters on service's...... now bare in mind these machines are not cheap to buy so it's no brain storm why they are fitted with these kind of filters to keep the coolant clear of harmful particles like rust, dust and other odd metal bits from the manufacturing process.<br />
The Range Rover is no different or for that matter any other car brand.<br />
<br />
Anti Freeze-summer coolant additives:<br />
Now this is very important, to go into exact details would take pages and pages to explain.<br />
Simply its very crucial that the correct type and quantity is added, its aids in raising the boiling point and prevents corrosion, if you live in a hard water area then use distilled water.<br />
<br />
Adding too mush additive can also be detrimental to your engine, always follow what the manufacturer specifies and do your self a favour, keep away from cheap anti freeze brands that are unknown, here in SA we have a large selection of both quality and cheap, the cheap stuff is known to cause damage to plastic's within the cooling system, I've seen this for myself.<br />
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Below pictures are form a P38, this is common and so over looked.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KDWKPtOZxao/S5OG1SIEp0I/AAAAAAAAAQ4/EMjTsFDJYjA/s1600-h/AC+blockage.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" kt="true" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KDWKPtOZxao/S5OG1SIEp0I/AAAAAAAAAQ4/EMjTsFDJYjA/s320/AC+blockage.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh34G7rK1uOvU1UuhPYriT6hIatlAKDgOyKa6tHB9BNNEzVdo6t3U3eZd9DJSfvCdzvHE_UBSx0sEXLDFbVcwORfeZK2RVGTqimWKUvjvcTnoHFCYUuEOLQv3ZcA0OChlleSwNJc-JZIt8/s1600-h/AC+condesor.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" kt="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh34G7rK1uOvU1UuhPYriT6hIatlAKDgOyKa6tHB9BNNEzVdo6t3U3eZd9DJSfvCdzvHE_UBSx0sEXLDFbVcwORfeZK2RVGTqimWKUvjvcTnoHFCYUuEOLQv3ZcA0OChlleSwNJc-JZIt8/s320/AC+condesor.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Below pics:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Just removed from a Range Rover that had a leaking transmission cooler..</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Upon further investigating other coolers had to be removed for cleaning as they were seriously blocked.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">With the coolers looking like this serious damage to both engine and transmission will occur and worst part is to see all this a complete strip down is required.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Front of radiator (Not visible when in place)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Radiator should be replaced but there is no stock at present so it will be sent in for professional cleaning and minor repair to the top little pipe that always breaks off. (protection shield coming soon)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Fan side, you wouldn't have thought it would be blocked up...</div><div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiemFrP1zNQeugvBDh8GrviQfaOUt0it77CzMjvlihbddnr-pUVjx7WnLdJA4SRbsKZNnZPwczPXRkHnnmmiINmj1AHmsMYnQEhRLY6XNv8SoHIvMSQDoS3Tf61PdJ7W_UVOwv4F5FLFpg/s1600/RR+various+043.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hw="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiemFrP1zNQeugvBDh8GrviQfaOUt0it77CzMjvlihbddnr-pUVjx7WnLdJA4SRbsKZNnZPwczPXRkHnnmmiINmj1AHmsMYnQEhRLY6XNv8SoHIvMSQDoS3Tf61PdJ7W_UVOwv4F5FLFpg/s320/RR+various+043.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">There's a transmission cooler there somewhere.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">These are becoming a problem on older P38s</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">If you see the bottom of the radiator and it looks oily wet then further investigating is required.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Another blocked radiator, the transmission cooler again looked like the picture above and at the time of replacing the radiator (new) around the begining of 2010 it all looked ok, just goes to show how quick a leaking transmission cooler can block up a new radiator, dust over a short period will stick to the leaking oil and build up, as it blocks up the oil is sucked through areas of the radiator that is free and so on until, it totally blocks up.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD4j8AYmTcFNML__SJU6xhgrWQz7UiG47uI87oew-h67ZSFry8AvQcqJlQbi7eG8cO3GLMv7cv_yHT_L_cKLApFFsC_qJ8bCnJ0W5EoJL4aClKlUK0YpSB2eRGX7JPPQg0zyttGPAR7-c/s1600/Rad++filt+005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nx="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD4j8AYmTcFNML__SJU6xhgrWQz7UiG47uI87oew-h67ZSFry8AvQcqJlQbi7eG8cO3GLMv7cv_yHT_L_cKLApFFsC_qJ8bCnJ0W5EoJL4aClKlUK0YpSB2eRGX7JPPQg0zyttGPAR7-c/s320/Rad++filt+005.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijgJf5KjJLRYh0H8jAw_vjbVmtWvjjiXI0_jmCVKCBYAgAlx3Eqn9DPyLVFoEVh0NJ7B0f3LO7MuOAujZzw_88k-fdh3iPG2xXbGwr1xyo8voGVHRwIk_7wlbT8ZUB75jo0AjenPkKp6E/s1600/13122010039.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" i8="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijgJf5KjJLRYh0H8jAw_vjbVmtWvjjiXI0_jmCVKCBYAgAlx3Eqn9DPyLVFoEVh0NJ7B0f3LO7MuOAujZzw_88k-fdh3iPG2xXbGwr1xyo8voGVHRwIk_7wlbT8ZUB75jo0AjenPkKp6E/s320/13122010039.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Drained coolant from a L322 and this was after 3 flushes, it took another 3 more to clear the system completly. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">it looks as if another brand of anti freeze was added to the cooling system which caused this milky mix.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">NEVER MIX ANTI FREEZE BRANDS due to chemical reactions that will cause severe damage to your motor /cooling system</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826950731270008698.post-52248772457653923712010-03-06T22:44:00.000-08:002010-08-01T00:09:45.609-07:00Cruise control.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
The joys of using cruise control........................ and then it fails<br />
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The system uses 3 primary components to engage cruise control. <br />
1. The Vac pump unit attached to the EAS box.<br />
2. Two electronic modules located on right side under lower dash trim.<br />
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Rarely do all three items go but it can and does happen, to date I've had to replace all three components on two Range Rovers P38's, the usual problem with a non functioning CC is cracked piping on the system.<br />
This pipe runs from the Vacuum pipe to the brake pedal where it is attached via a vacuum breaker switch.<br />
The pipe ends crack (due to age) on both ends, also note that on the Vacuum pump end the pipe is split into an additional two more shorter pipes, these two need inspecting, any sign of cracks in the piping requires replacement using a suitable thick walled rubber pipe, a good quality fuel hose usually works well.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbCQW8ADI7nQ80_iPT3JaA0veIvTy_wixs1JnslpmCMvUDKPFxFICQIZmQEFQSsBI3E9u1UBT0vZdLHl4UHuCfT65MwkTve7w2oCIjIXFMoDHNzMR_-pqufmG6DEvupQyLICMewKLKKzA/s1600-h/pics+to+edit+042.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" kt="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbCQW8ADI7nQ80_iPT3JaA0veIvTy_wixs1JnslpmCMvUDKPFxFICQIZmQEFQSsBI3E9u1UBT0vZdLHl4UHuCfT65MwkTve7w2oCIjIXFMoDHNzMR_-pqufmG6DEvupQyLICMewKLKKzA/s320/pics+to+edit+042.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Pictures of the Electronic modules to follow soon</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826950731270008698.post-39272917802217046692010-03-06T22:04:00.000-08:002020-04-20T11:06:24.386-07:00Ignition coils (GEMs) and not what to doAh the ignition system.......<br />
At some point you are going to pick up an ignition related problem of sorts, be it HT leads (The wires that go to the spark plugs) injectors (Very rarely go) and so on.<br />
<br />
UPDATE:<br />
So I've been tinkering with coils recently, my local electronic ECU repair station reckons Hyundai coils are the same, I managed to get 4 for testing purposes on a customers car.....mmmm bad move and they blew at around 500 km's of use so don't go the Hyundai route.<br />
<br />
Without going into details of wasted spark technology I'll let the pictures do the talking!<br />
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We have brand new coil packs in stock.<br />
Loose single coils R900<br />
Complete coil packs R2870<br />
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Coils can easily be replaced once coil pack has been removed</div>
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Later models use the square Bosch coil pack and there are two of them.</div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826950731270008698.post-81322074947161003482010-03-06T10:33:00.000-08:002010-10-13T10:57:46.289-07:00Bodge repairs, no Low/High range selectionBodge jobs, this is the kind of repair that makes me fume.<br />
<span style="background-color: white;">Owners</span> as well as repairers take short cuts, the P38 is no vehicle to try this sort of short cut repairs.<br />
Its way to complex with an array of computers to try it and when bodge jobs are done the results are worse than a open heart operation, the time it takes to sort out a major bodge job can be days on end........<br />
<br />
In the pictures below is a typical bodge job repair, I was informed that it was carried out by a qualified LR mechanic, Some how I doubt he was a LR mechanic let alone a mechanic at all.<br />
<br />
<br />
At all the repairs were carried out the Range selector still didn't work so more digging into the workshop manual was needed, what seemed to take forever actually didn't and within 5 mins I had a solution to the problem<br />
To cut a long story short the speed pick up on the transfer box had gone open circuit, in other words it was faulty, slapped in a 2nd part to confirm and by George I now had low and high range operating like it should<br />
<br />
<br />
The faulty part:<br />
A simple but very important piece of the puzzle, it prevents you selecting while the vehicle is in motion above a certain speed, 5kph I think<br />
<br />
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</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826950731270008698.post-1985077427479967552010-03-03T14:09:00.000-08:002015-05-14T06:35:30.561-07:00SunroofA better update to the this section is near, in the meantime please note that if you remove the sunroof motor there is a special way to synchronize it if you have manually turned it once removed, the RAVE manual does give a good description of the procedure and is important, if you don't you will cause serious damage to the sunroof rails, these rails are becoming scarce and are darn pricey.<br />
<br />
Most of the time when your sunroof stops working it's because a plastic clip to the front, mounted on each side breaks.<br />
The clips are available (I carry a set of 3) from Land Rover at a reasonable price.<br />
Replacement requires sunroof glass to be removed and at the same time inspection and lubrication of moving parts is ideal.<br />
When lubricating these parts use a silicon based spray, anything heavier seems to gum things up and tends to cause more problems, the rails are made of aluminium and so are some of the other parts.<br />
The bits that break causing your sunroof to tilt open on one side are made of plastic and are not repairable in any way.<br />
The only solution here is a total removal of the sunroof mechanism to determine what went wrong, most of the time its quicker and cheaper to source a good second hand mechanism from a breakers yard.<br />
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<img border="0" kt="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghpdMKNVVj4JHBqIlESTflKWN2PEYXvVaGETgYCMZd46H6Ux3Ci6sTCZUrHya3QCwb2xcVllYBS8ui0C313XHcmK4txRnBZAA7F1oRIte4PDlGbRlMBU0ur6oxc7c6SSrcJmHWN2ze730/s320/Sunroof+retainers.JPG" /></div>
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On the subject of sunroofs there is a couple of weak points like leaks.<br />
The drain tubes are well secured but where they terminate at the drain end is a concern point.<br />
The clear plastic pipe is merely popped into the rubber tip end, this drain piece blocks up and <br />
yes you get the picture, water starts entering the car.<br />
<br />
However a simple snip off the ends, securing properly into drain end with tape will ward off any <br />
future blockage (see pic below)<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8826950731270008698.post-8171187180021021272010-02-17T13:39:00.000-08:002015-05-14T06:58:57.406-07:00Fuse box info and relays, new update with latest easy mod to prevent damage <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Update on the below proposed update.... its been slow but its coming to this blog soon.</div>
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UPDATE to follow on how to remove and supply the 3 BeCM wires that attach to the bottom of the fuse box with its own dedicated power supply, these fuse box's are over loaded and is a design fault.</div>
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Mod will detail a separate 3 link fuse connection, its very possible that this mod will solve a few current supply issues like odd ABS, dash dials odd behavior etc </div>
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The handbook lists all the fuses but nothing on the relays</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipqKbGe5U77ROk3XAahj6p45VL-m-8Wx0vpfNzFsI0B4RcfPp5pciEhS2t-7h2k9gygN0QvlUC_id4dEm10NN0qgDG4CyZuSTzCPIQb7z_BK3aGTVJ0NfbUZ_30fElZmsA-PHsWtR7JDo/s1600-h/capture_17022010_221155.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" ct="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipqKbGe5U77ROk3XAahj6p45VL-m-8Wx0vpfNzFsI0B4RcfPp5pciEhS2t-7h2k9gygN0QvlUC_id4dEm10NN0qgDG4CyZuSTzCPIQb7z_BK3aGTVJ0NfbUZ_30fElZmsA-PHsWtR7JDo/s320/capture_17022010_221155.jpg" /></a></div>
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RL means relay</div>
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Be advised that you can use basic relays that are available from auto electrical suppliers or spare shops BUT a quality brand like Siemens, Bosch is highly recommended, speak to a auto electrician if in doubt. </div>
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1 RL18 AC control relay</div>
2 RL13 AC condenser fan 1<br />
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3 RL11 Head lamp wash wipe<br />
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4 RL8 Front wiper interval relay<br />
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5 RL1 Front wiper control relay<br />
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6 RL19 Engine main control relay<br />
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7 RL14 AC condenser fan 2<br />
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8 RL2 ABS power relay<br />
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9 RL 20 EAS compressor relay<br />
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10 RL15 Ignition coils, MAF sensor **Important relay**<br />
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11 RL4 Right heated front screen<br />
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12 RL16 Starter relay<br />
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13 RL5 Left heated front screen <br />
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14 RL17 ABS pump **Don't mess with this one, buy genuine if in doubt - Do not modify a standard relay to fit as contacts will fuse and will burn out your ABS pump**<br />
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15 RL6 Right blower motor<br />
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16 RL12 Fuel pump relay<br />
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17 RL7 Left blower motor<br />
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18 RL9 Hooter relay<br />
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Apart from the ABS pump relay being black DO NOT install other black relays within the fuse box <br />
The yellow and green relays are different by pin design compared to relays bought over the counter from spares shops<br />
<br />
The ABS relay is a special double contact design due to the start up current of 70 amps going through it, you must replace this relay with the correct one from Land Rover as these too are not available elsewhere<br />
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<br />
Maxi Fuses supply the BeCM with power<br />
<br />
3 cables secured onto the underside of fuse box go to the BeCM<br />
<br />
The slot “Not used” is normally populated with a spare relay.<br />
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<br />
REPAIRING THE FUSE BOX:<br />
<br />
It is possible to carry out repairs to the fuse box but a simple fault like a bad relay can lead you to believe it is the fuse box, a relay can still click and show ok when testing but is another situation when a load goes through its internal contacts<br />
<br />
None the less a fuse box can go wrong and is repairable, I've done a few with good results even though they are a pain to do<br />
Below are a few pictures just so you can see how complex they are, its a well built unit using lots of thick copper <br />
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The stripping process is easy as to is the splitting the two halves, its the reassembling that takes most of the time with re soldering in new connection joiners, takes around 5 hours non stop.</div>
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NEW update from here <br />
A few more pics to be added very shortly on how to repair the above burnt main battery cable connection with the use of a starter motor solenoid copper bolt, this allows for good soldering and wide spread support of current flow.<br />
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In the above picture on the left is the original power post in the fuse box, to the left is the starter motor solenoid copper bolt that is used in the repairs of the fuse box.<br />
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The above fuse box would in most cases been deemed throw away, this one was so bad I decided to give it a try and the results were positive.</div>
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Above pic is to show how the lug needs to be bent to allow for the plastic cover to fit, minor enlargement of the hole is required.<br />
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To add the new mod two holes barely larger than the solid core copper cable being used needs to be drilled through the PC board and soldered (As illustrated above circled in red)</div>
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The cabling used is normal house electrical sections, preferably the thicker type used for geyser power supply as its rated a higher current resulting in it being thicker and ideal.</div>
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This add on can be done without splitting the board sections and a must do even on a brand new fuse box </div>
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Its the way these fuse/relay boxes should of been manufactured in the first place......<br />
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Interesting that something so basic to make up can have a major impact on current spread, we now carry out this mod to all fuse boxes we repair, better than new and I'm surprised the manufacturers don't do the same...oh wait, if they did they would not be selling fuse boxes<br />
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Relays...<br />
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New update added in May 2015, engine power<br />
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Pics on ABS pump relay and other relays within the fuse box opened for all to see regarding why cleaning up the contacts can have a positive effect<br />
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P38 ABS relay, this one fused and caused the ABS pump to burn out</div>
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Standard relay, please do not modify one of these for use as a ABS relay, it will fuse together and burn out the ABS pump - Guaranteed and I've seen it happen, do not simply let anyone replace or service the braking system on the P38 if they don't specialize on these vehicles.</div>
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Apart from WILLIAMS 4X4 I know of nobody else here in South Africa </div>
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Standard relays can be cleaned up nicely, use fine 1000 grit sand paper, good for another life time.</div>
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